Replacing engine mounts on Renault Megane 2

Securing the vehicle: removing and refitting the wheel

Battery change on Renault Megane 2

Remove the under-engine protection plate secured by 7 x 13 mm bolts.

Place a jack under the vehicle between the engine and the gearbox. By inserting a wooden block, slightly relieve the entire engine.

Unclip the 3 connectors connected to the calculator by rotating the connector levers to "draw" a half circle after pressing on the locking lug using a screwdriver. Do not force

Remove the 13 bolts from the battery tray and the one from the mounting flange.

Loosen the clamp on the air hose leaving the air box, tilt the battery tray 90° to the left to avoid unclipping the electrical harness fasteners (fragile, in the event of breakage, use ripcords when reassembling). Remove the computer which is just fitted under the tray.

Unclip the air hoses starting with the one on the radiator side, then the windshield side and then the one on the air box inlet. Remove the air box by pulling it towards you, it is just clipped at the bottom left and on the right side. Everything is very precise and you have to play on the inclination of the hoses.

We arrive at this configuration where we can see the engine mount.

Loosen the central nut of the bracket that holds the engine using a 16 socket and a ratchet. Make sure to have relieved the engine at the correct height, if not relieved enough, the engine will descend too much, if too much relieved, it will not descend and will be in the way when removing the engine bracket.

Nut on top, bolt below, unscrew the nuts from the bracket to the chassis using an 18 socket. Hold the bolts from below to avoid dropping them.

Remove the engine mount by pulling it upwards; if it is blocked, use one or two flat-blade screwdrivers to lever it out. Remember to lower the engine enough to release the central screw.

Center the new support as best as possible with the central screw and the mounting holes in the chassis. Ideally, get help from a third party who can adjust the jack or move the engine a few millimeters by hand or using a lever in order to center everything properly.

Tighten the two outer bolts to a torque of 62 Nm, then the central nut also to 62 Nm. Lower the jack, ensure correct reassembly, then reassemble everything in the reverse order of disassembly.

We can compare the two supports, here seen from below, part of the rubber is separated from the rest.

Also called a hydro-elastic buffer, it is located to the left of the distribution facing the hood.

This time, we position the jack under the oil pan, just to the left of the drain plug and still with a good wooden wedge. We relieve the engine without excess.

Loosen the 16 cross bolt that connects the bracket to the engine, move it to the left against the coolant reservoir, we cannot extract it at the moment. Adjust the height of the engine with the jack so that the bolt is as horizontal as possible.

Being difficult to access and very tight, here is a little tip with two flat wrenches. Do not use an open-end wrench on the bolt at the risk of rounding it. It is possible to unclip the diesel bulb as well as the hoses to save space, but do not force the aluminum air conditioning pipes.

Remove the 4 engine mount cover bolts using a 16 socket.

Finish with the 3 support bolts, still with a 16 socket. Extract the cover and the support by pivoting between the upper air conditioning pipe and the distribution housing.

Proceed in reverse order for reassembly, first lock the new support by tightening the 3 bolts to a torque of 62Nm, then the 4 bolts of the cover always to the same torque and finally the transverse bolt to 105Nm. Do not forget to reclip the bulb and the hoses if necessary.

Here we observe the difference in sagging between the new and old support.

On the new mount and despite the weight of the engine, we still have a space between the two rubber parts. It is possible to check the sagging of an old mount by inserting a 0.5mm shim at this point, if it does not fit or slide freely, the mount is defective.

Finally, remove the two 18 bolts from the lower support. It is connected on the right in the photo to the chassis of the vehicle, and on the left to the "tie rod" itself fixed to the gearbox. No need to remove the tie rod, the two bolts removed, pivot the support from left to right to extract it.

Here there is no need to relieve the engine, it will just have a manually adjustable balancing effect to facilitate operations.

lower support

pulling

Reinstall the new support with its two bolts to a torque of 105Nm. If you had to remove the tie rod, the left bolt in the photo tightens to 62Nm.

Here we observe the need to replace this support.