Introduction
Replacement of the distribution kit (belt + tensioner roller + water pump) on 1.4 injection
Tools
Parts
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Place a basin under the lower radiator hose, then disconnect it.
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Once all the fluid has drained, reconnect the lower hose.
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Don't forget to drop off your old LDR at the recycling center
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Unscrew the 2 fixing screws of the timing case
Distribution made jointly with the cylinder head gasket during which the entire top engine was redone…
Personally, after this tutorial, do another one: “how to change your rocker cover gasket” and you can clearly see that it is cracked, and your engine is dirty.
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Detach the electrical sheath from the housing
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Unscrew the 3 screws securing the lower casing then remove it.
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Roughly align the hole in the camshaft pulley (red) to the pin hole in the cylinder head (green) (stay a little short)
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To do this, turn the engine by hand using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley fixing nut by "tightening" the nut, the engine will turn.
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Once the 2 holes are almost aligned, pre-engage the pin in the flywheel hole (here a ø6mm screw)
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While continuing to try to push the pin in, slowly crank the engine until the pin goes in and the engine is locked.
If beauty matters so much to you, please consider rereading your posts and correcting the syntax...
In the meantime, there is no effort on this gig, cutting a forest comes down to even more "tinkering", especially since the idea behind this kind of tutorial is to make everything accessible to everyone, not everyone necessarily has a disc cutter to sacrifice a 6 drill bit...
What is the point of losing a forest?
To show a nice tutorial, and not a DIY with a common wood screw, which you call “PIGE”.
What is the point of losing a forest?
Frankly, it really looks like a DIY screw, you don't have a 6 mm drill bit, which you cut if it's too long.
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Once the flywheel is locked, the pin holes of the camshaft pulley must be aligned, also put the pin in place (ø8mm drill here)
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Unscrew and remove the tensioner roller (Already removed in the photo)
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Remove the belt
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Unscrew the screw slightly
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Unscrew the nut completely
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Move the alternator closer to the engine to release the tension, remove the belt.
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For ease of access, the right front wheel can be removed.
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Reinstall the new tensioner roller (without tightening it completely)
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Remove the water pump
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Check that the water pumps are identical
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Install the belt starting from the bottom, then the camshaft pulley (top)
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The belt must be at least slightly taut between the two pulleys
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Finish with the water pump then the tensioner roller
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Place the roller on the belt, then use a screwdriver to lever it (Place the screwdriver in the small square of the roller) once the belt is tight, tighten the roller
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To check the belt tension, "twist" the longest strand of the belt, you should not do more than a quarter turn
for the tension of the tensioner take an 8 mm square rod bent in an L shape along its length place a string with a weight of 1.5 kg at 10 cm to have the correct tension builder.
then tighten the roller, make the engine turn twice by hand, then loosen the roller with its weight and retighten
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Remove the 2 pins (Camshaft pulley and flywheel)
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Turn the engine by hand (Same procedure as for fitting the pins) and check that nothing is blocking (perform at least 2 turns)
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Reassemble the various parts of the timing case (Step 4 to 1)
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Fill and bleed the cooling system
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8 other people completed this guide.
8 Comments
There is no direction to put the timing belt, there is no arrow on it?
Can you tell me how to proceed for injector cleaning and where they are placed in the engine as well as the flow meters thank you
suck me please , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
This tutorial is great, and the idea of the screw actually allowed me to do the job without sacrificing a tool or investing unnecessarily in gauges, great =D
super, facile à faire, très bien expliqué. Merci
Is this valid on the 205 diesel? Because if I can avoid disassembling the damper pulley, well, that would be great :-)
Super merci, réalisé facilement
super merci!!!