Introduction
Changing a left rear bearing with ABS on a Yaris II D4D 90hp Luna from 2006.
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WARNING THIS IS STILL DANGEROUS, you must take these precautions. To be done on FLAT
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Put the vehicle in GEAR
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REMOVE THE HANDBRAKE. This may seem strange at first glance, but if you want to remove the brake bell later, you must do so.
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Block the front wheels with wood to prevent movement when jacked up.
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Using your wheel wrench, loosen the 4 nuts in a cross pattern if possible.
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Raise the car until the wheel starts to lift off the ground an inch or two.
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It is advisable to position protective wood under the car towards the jack in case it comes loose.
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Remove the 4 nuts from the wheel and lift the wheel out.
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Start by screwing the two 8 screws by hand into the holes in the bell. This should not force from the first turns otherwise the thread is not correct.
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Tighten the 8 screws one after the other little by little with a wrench to spread the bell. If it makes noise and forces, you forgot to release the handbrake!
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Remove the bell by carrying it gently. Be careful, it is very dirty.
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Rotate the bearing until the holes in the bearing line up with the bolts behind it.
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At the back of the arm, remove the plastic ABS connector cover, 1 clip on top and 1 clip on the bottom. Remove the ABS connector. The locking clip is underneath and is extremely hard to remove.
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Using the 14 key, loosen the 4 screws using a long lever (in my case the wheel wrench). Remove the bearing gently, paying attention to the braking system.
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If this blocks, see the next step dedicated to this.
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Your bearing will probably have a few kilometers on the clock and will probably be rusty.
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To release the bearing, replace the 4 wheel screws by hand.
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Hit with a soft hammer from the back of the screw. Perform the manipulation on each bolt in a cross pattern. After a while the bearing will move and come off.
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The bearing may come out with the rear brake bell. Then put some penetrating oil behind the bell on the bearing. The procedure is the same for removing the bearing from the bell. If it is necessary to tap on the bell, tap only at the location of the arrow (photo 2) on the end of the bell and gently.
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Position the new bearing in place, paying attention to the braking system around it. Pay attention to the direction, there is one.
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Gently screw in the 4 screws through the holes with the 14 key. Check that everything is in place. Clip the ABS connector to the back and its plastic cover.
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Tighten the 4 screws crosswise, using a torque wrench and to the torque recommended by the manufacturer in your maintenance booklet. Don't forget that it's your bearing that holds your wheel!
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Re-insert the brake bell by hand into the 4 axles. If the bell does not turn correctly, it is because you have not inserted it far enough and the brakes are therefore not facing their wear mark on the bell.
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When it is opposite, the bell turns without forcing.
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Bring the wheel in front of the holes and fit it in.
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Tighten the 4 screws by hand as much as possible. Lower the car so that it touches the ground, then tighten in a cross pattern. Check that the wheel turns normally.
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Put the embellishment back on and you're DONE!
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Do not start without the 14 pipe or tube key and the 8 screws because they are essential for disassembly.
Do not start without the 14 pipe or tube key and the 8 screws because they are essential for disassembly.
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9 Comments
Very good post
I changed it on my 2014 yaris vvti 100hp
To disconnect the ABS connector, I started by unclipping its cable to give it some slack, then I took the bearing out of its housing to see more clearly.
I placed the bearing on a wedge at height and had full visibility to disconnect the ABS connector.
To reassemble the new bearing, I started by reconnecting the ABS connector 5 before reassembling the assembly.
Very good tutorial. I did my 2 rear bearings. Left side: 30 mins disassembly, reassembly. Right side: then I struggled. More than 3 hours to remove the bearing which was welded with rust. I had to disassemble the drum flange and the braking system. And even like that it was welded. Only way, hammer on the back of the bearing and with a lot of difficulty.
Good morning,
I've been on it for 2 days and the bearing is completely seized on the bell... I've put tons of W40 in it for 48 hours but it doesn't move. Can you suggest a solution please?
Hello, it took me 2 hours to do this operation because I had to remove the brake shoes to be able to use a chisel and tap until the old bearing was released.
Be careful that the springs don't jump on you like they did for me because I had to reassemble the wheel on the repair side, take it down from the jack and reassemble the other side to observe the assembly; we are still with brakes so you have to be careful.
I also used a 13 socket and not a 14 for my part. You have to allow time and days when garages are open in case nothing works.
Otherwise it's a good Sunday mechanic experience and apart from planning time, tools and good soap to wash your hands, it will be a huge amount of fun... after that you will be entitled to a good beer.
Good luck .
Good morning,
I am at the stage to disassemble the bearing which is seized. I do not understand the part where you have to hit the back of the screw with a soft hammer. Would it be possible to explain to me please. Thanks in advance.
