Difficulty
Easy
Steps
4
Time Required
00:30:00
En cours
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Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the car and place jack stands on it for your safety.
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Remove the wheels.
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Remove the part that holds the ABS cable.
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Be careful with the ABS sensor cable.
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You have two options for doing this: either do both sides simultaneously by lifting the entire front axle if you have the necessary equipment, or do one side then the other side.
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Loosen the top bolt of the tie rod on the shock absorber by inserting a 30 Torx key to lock the ball joint and loosening with a 16 combination wrench.
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Repeat the operation on the lower connecting rod attachment.
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Use a tire lever to lever the stabilizer bar to remove the ball joints from their location.
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The stabilizer bar can move up suddenly if you do not hold the tire lever correctly, do not leave your hand between the stabilizer bar and the chassis.
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New connecting rod at the top of the photo.
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Use a tire lever to lever the stabilizer bar to put the ball joints back in their places.
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Remember to lock the ball joint with a 30 Torx key to avoid any damage to the ball joint cover.
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Tighten the lower tie rod bolt on the stabilizer bar with a 16 mm combination wrench.
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Pay attention to the direction of the ball joint, for fixing on the stabilizer bar, the bolt is located towards the inside of the vehicle.
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Tighten the top bolt of the link on the shock absorber.
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Pay attention to the direction of the ball joint, for fixing on the shock absorber, the bolt is located towards the outside of the vehicle.
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Replace the parts that hold the ABS cables. "see disassembly".
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Reassemble the wheels, lower the car from the jack stands, tighten the wheel nuts. Replace the bolt covers.
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16 Comments
Hello, I have a 2012 Kia Sportage but on my stabilizer bar I have the nut but I don't have the hole to put the key in. How could I remove the nut?
When you see the pictures, it's relatively simple, no rust on the tightening thread. You just have to live where the roads are salted in winter and the operation becomes a little more difficult because the whole thing is well blocked. As a result, a lot of effort is required to unscrew the nut while holding the 6-sided key.
or you regularly put WD40 on it and a blow with an impact wrench and it comes out straight away.
+1 for Guy and Gaetan, the purpose of the anti-roll bar is precisely to exert a constraint from the anti-roll bar to the opposite shock absorber via this rod in curves especially, to prevent the car from leaning too much... (rolling, the car wallows like a 2CV basically)
By lifting only one side, it can be…delicate. Besides, when one slaps often the other will not be long…
For the key, in spare parts, it can vary 16, 17, 19, whatever the operation is always the same on the connecting rods in general.
No parallelism to be expected in my opinion unless there is excessive/irregular wear on one or both tires, in which case poor inflation, geometry or steering/shock absorber elements need to be checked.
Hoping to have brought something. Seb
