Introduction
Replacing a hub bearing on Audi A3 II - 2.0 TDi 16V 140cv (8P1)
You will remove the pads, brake disc, caliper support, lower ball joint, universal joint on the wheel side to be able to remove the hub with its bearing and reassemble the whole assembly step by step.
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Remove the hubcap from the center of the wheel
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Insert a flathead screwdriver into one edge and pry it up.
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Bolt head, you will need a 27mm socket
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Insert your 27 mm socket with your extension and use a 1.50 m to 2 m tube to help you unblock it.
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Remove the wheel nut covers
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Using the pliers present in the trunk of the vehicle (or flat-nose pliers), go and find the cover, do the same operation for the 5 holes.
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With your cross unlock the wheel.
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Always place a jack stand under the vehicle for safety.
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Remove the 5 studs and your wheel
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By hand, unhook the wire from the two supports.
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With a flat screwdriver insert it under the clip and pry up and down.
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Remove it with your hand
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Using the flat screwdriver, remove the top and bottom caps.
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Inside the hood
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The screw
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Using a 7mm Allen key, loosen the two screws
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With a flat screwdriver insert it at the top and pry it up.
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Push the disc pads back with the flat screwdriver to release the caliper
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Remove the brake caliper.
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Using a string or wire, attach the brake caliper to the shock absorber spring.
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With a crosshead screwdriver loosen the screw and remove the brake disc
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If the screw is too hard to loosen you will need an impact screwdriver.
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Use a 16 mm wrench to release the three nuts on the ball joint.
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Wire brush the nuts and apply penetrating oil.
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Using a flat screwdriver, remove the ball joint from the triangle.
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If necessary, hit the head of the bolt with a hammer to release the universal joint.
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Loosen and remove the bolt completely.
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Pull the hub
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Push the cardan shaft to release it from the hub.
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Thoroughly clean the threads of the four screws with a wire brush.
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Put penetrating oil on the ends of the 4 screws
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You will need a T55 tip
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This step is very important to facilitate the loosening of the hub
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Heat the hub with a heat gun at the location of the screws where you put the penetrating oil
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Place the bit straight so as not to damage the screw heads.
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Using your bit (M12 - 12-sided extended), release the screws and remove them.
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Place the hub in its location by aligning the fixing holes
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Fix the hub with the new screws and lock them with the T 55 bit.
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Fit the cardan head into the hub, rotating it to the right or left to match the splines.
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Move the cardan bolt as close as possible to do this you will need a 24mm twelve-sided socket
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Leverage with a crowbar, press down on the triangle and push on the hub to align the screws with the mounting holes.
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Once aligned release the triangle
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Reposition the nuts and lock the assembly with a 16 mm wrench.
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Position the disk in its location
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Replace the fixing screw and lock the
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Position the support, place one screw then the other screw before locking both with the 18 mm key.
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Position the stirrup at the bottom
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Be careful to position the brake pad indicator wire correctly
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Push the top of the caliper towards the disc
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Take out the screws and engage them in the location.
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Tighten the screws with the 7 mm Allen key
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Reposition the two covers on the screw heads at the top and bottom
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Reposition the two cables in their location.
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The wear indicator cable
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Reposition the staple in the top hole
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Using a flat head screwdriver, push the tip of the bottom clip into its hole, holding it with your thumb as you push.
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This operation is not always done the first time.
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Make sure the tips are properly inserted into the holes.
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Remove the candle and lower the jack
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Block your wheel
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With the 1.5 to 2 m bar, block the cardan bolt
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Replace the center hubcap by hand.
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Replace the caps on the wheel nuts.
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Start the engine and pump the brake pedal three times to bring the pads back into contact with the brake disc.
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In fact it is better to use an M12 bit (12-sided) The Torx 55 bit only has (6-sided).
In fact it is better to use an M12 bit (12-sided) The Torx 55 bit only has (6-sided).
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13 Comments
Good morning
Very good tutorial, thank you very much.
After changing the front left or right bearing or both, should you do an alignment?
Hello tightening torque the 4 bearing bolts 70 nm 2/ caliper support 65 nm 3/ caliper 35 nm 4/ the three triangle nuts 55 nm 6/ the wheel 120 nm and 7/ the cardan 80 nm
Good evening,
My mechanic changed two complete hubs, after about 200 km noise, central bolt which connects the universal joint loosens and bearing turns blue so it heats up.
Why is this bolt loosening? Thanks
Savior
And the tightening torques…
I personally changed the ball joint too! Use a flat chisel to remove the bearing (mine split in two when I hit it with a hammer) as well as a screw for the disc that I had to drill