Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
11
Time Required
01:00:00
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
Introduction
This tutorial helps you to change the front brake discs and pads on Opel mokka 1.6 CDTI 4x2 16V S&S 110 hp
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caliper
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Caliper bracket
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The caliper is fixed by 2 10mm screws.
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Lock the nut with an 18mm wrench and loosen the screw with a 10mm socket.
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Once the 2 screws are removed the caliper is no longer held.
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brake hose
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The caliper must not rest on the brake hose and the brake hose must not be pinched.
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Connect the caliper to the suspension spring using a cable.
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By pushing the piston back the brake fluid level will rise. Make sure it does not overflow by removing the excess with a syringe.
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Using a clamp and a wooden wedge, push the piston back as far as it will go.
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Platelets
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Guides
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To remove the pads, simply pull on them to slide them into their guides.
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Caliper bracket
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Remove the fixing screws with the 18mm socket.
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Use a 6-point socket instead of a 12-point socket to avoid slipping and damaging the screw head.
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The screws are coated with red threadlock (high strength). If necessary, heat with a blowtorch.
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Some brake pad sets provide the clips,
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Insert a small flathead screwdriver between the caliper bracket and the clip and pry them up to remove them.
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Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the retaining screw and then remove the disc.
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The disc mounting screws that came with the new discs are not good (you need an M6 and this is an M8). So I reused the old screw.
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Using a wire brush, clean the caliper bracket and caliper, avoiding the rubber bellows.
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Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.
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Spray brake cleaner on both sides of the disc to remove the paraffin before reassembling it.
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You can spray anti-noise on the bearing surfaces of the pads to prevent future whistling.
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Do not put any anti-noise compound on the disc or the friction surfaces of the pads.
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Once reassembly is complete, press the brake pedal several times to bring the pads into contact with the discs.
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Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If there is too much, remove the excess using a syringe.
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The jar is located behind the calculator.
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The level should be between min and max.
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To break in new pads, do not brake hard during the first 200 km.
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The effectiveness of the first braking actions may be reduced.
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Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
6 other people completed this guide.
6 Comments
Hello, excellent tutorial, thanks to those who devote themselves to making them, who know how to share, which is not common in this brutal world.
andher2020 - Resolved on Release Reply
Great tutorial, with this it's child's play. Just missing the thread lock to add during reassembly. Very precise tutorial down to the screw diameter which is actually not the right one with the discs. Thank you for this great work.
Sébastien Faillon - Resolved on Release Reply
Be careful though: NEVER PUT A CEMENT BLOCK UNDER THE CAR TO SECURE IT - IT CAN BREAK AT ANY MOMENT!!! Use wooden shims instead.
Otherwise great TUTORIAL Thanks!!
THIERRY BARAT - Resolved on Release Reply
Thank you very much for this tutorial. This is the first time I changed brake pads and discs on my car. Easy to do when you follow the steps and with the tools. Opel Mokka 1.7CDTI Auto.
To complete the tutorial: To replace the pads and discs for the rear. Follow the steps as for the front. Only small precision, before proceeding with the disassembly, detach the handbrake cable (fixed by 2 screws along the chassis and which hangs below the hub, use 1 12 mm socket) in order to give it ballast and thus be able to disassemble the caliper.
Another small clarification: to push the piston back, you absolutely need a piston pusher because it must be pushed back and screwed in at the same time.
Frédéric PIRET - Resolved on Release Reply
Thanks for the tutorial, I'm changing the pads on a petrol Mokka
francis.minaroli - Resolved on Release Reply
