Introduction
A leaking radiator will not only cause a loss of coolant but also a loss of pressure. And the cooling system needs to be pressurized to function optimally.
The disassembly order I give here is just one possibility among many. You can very well disassemble the fan after the canister, clamp the hoses before disassembling the battery... It's just a suggestion.
This procedure can be carried out at home, but at least lifting ramps will be required. A bridge or pit makes things much easier.
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remove the expansion tank cap
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It goes without saying that we work with a cold engine, of course.
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remove the air sleeve and set it aside
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remove the engine protection cover under the car (10mm and 13mm wrenches, there are 9 screws in total)
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disconnect the battery starting with the negative terminal (10mm wrench)
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remove the battery after unscrewing the fixing bracket (7mm key)
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remove the plastic cover around the battery (2 screws, 10mm key)
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You will need to unclip the hose from the canister.
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unplug the fan plug
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unscrew the 4 screws fixing the fan to the radiator (7mm wrench, there are two screws on each side)
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remove the fan
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On this vehicle, the coolant was changed very recently and will therefore be reused (it must be replaced every 2 years). We will therefore clamp the hoses to avoid emptying the engine block.
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clamp the two top hoses (I had clamped them before removing the battery)
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and finally the bottom one
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Before removing the radiator, we will have to free the canister (recycling of gasoline vapors from the tank).
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unscrew the canister locking screw on the radiator (7mm wrench)
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tilt the canister and lift it to release it
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and leave it waiting
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After placing a recovery tray under the radiator, undo the hose clamp and disconnect the hose
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The clamp seen here is not original and did not tighten the hose enough. I later replaced it with a conventional clamp that is screwed on with a 7mm wrench or a Phillips screwdriver.
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let the radiator drain completely
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disconnect the 2 upper hoses after unscrewing the clamps (7mm wrench)
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Under the car, undo the 2 radiator fixing screws (ratchet wrench, extension and 13mm socket)
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lower the radiator to dislodge it from the crosspiece (2 pins on each side)
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and remove the radiator
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compare radiators
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remove the rubber spacers from the old radiator
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and install them on the new one
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present the radiator
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Be very careful, radiators are very fragile parts and you can bend the fins just by touching them with your hand. Take your time to install the new radiator.
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insert the 2 upper lugs into their housing on the crosspiece
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and screw in the 2 fixing screws (ratchet, extension and 13mm socket)
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Fit the 3 hoses, tighten the clamps (7mm wrench or multi-grip pliers depending on what you have) and remove the clamps
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insert the 2 lugs of the canister into their housing on the radiator
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We can take advantage of this to check the condition of the canister, I had to repair a hose that was broken in two.
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place the canister against the radiator
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and tighten the fixing screw (7mm wrench)
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present the fan on the radiator
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and screw in the 4 fixing screws (2 on each side, 7mm key)
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There are two centering pins for the fan, 1 on each side. It will be impossible to screw in anyway if the fan is not centered.
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reconnect the fan
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install the plastic cover on the side of the battery (2 screws, 10mm wrench)
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put the canister hose back in place
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put the air sleeve back in place
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install the battery and reconnect starting with the positive terminal (10mm wrench for the negative terminal)
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position and screw the battery mounting bracket (7mm wrench)
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I recommend bleeding the circuit as much as possible before starting the engine. To do this:
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fill the expansion tank
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open the bleeder at the radiator until the liquid flows out
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and bleed at the thermostat until the fluid flows out
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The vase will probably have to be filled as you go.
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At this point, the bulk of the purge has already been done. We'll just finish up and make sure everything works.
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start the car, heating set to maximum heat (the red circle on the ventilation console)
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you can accelerate to warm up the engine more quickly
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Bubbles will rise in the expansion tank, proof that the purge is being done.
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screw the expansion tank cap on once the fan starts and let the engine run
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we let the engine run to make sure there are no leaks
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When you know that everything is fine, turn off the engine and put the cover back under the car (10mm and 13mm wrenches)
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cold engine, we will check the coolant level one last time
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2 Comments
Clear and well illustrated. Additional questions from Internet users very useful. Thank you for this excellent work.
I did everything you told me but I have a small leak behind the engine I'm disgusted