Introduction
Tutorial made on Peugeot 205 petrol (1.4i - TU3M)
Parts
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First, drain the cooling circuit. To do this, open the various drain plugs/screws.
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Open the coolant reservoir
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Open the radiator cap
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Open the heating circuit bleed screw
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Open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.
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Place a basin under the lower radiator hose, then disconnect it.
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Once all the liquid has been drained, close the various purges/plugs and reconnect the lower hose
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Detach the electrical sheath from the housing
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Unscrew the 3 fixing screws of the lower timing case
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Roughly align the hole in the camshaft pulley (red) to the pin hole in the cylinder head (green) (stay a little short)
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To do this, turn the engine by hand using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley fixing nut by "tightening" the nut, the engine will turn.
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Once the 2 holes are almost aligned, pre-engage the pin in the flywheel hole (here a ø6mm screw)
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While continuing to try to push the pin in, slowly crank the engine until the pin goes in and the engine is locked.
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Once the flywheel is locked, the pin holes of the camshaft pulley must be aligned, also put the pin in place (ø8mm drill here)
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You can also mark the belt/pulley in case your pin comes off
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Unscrew and remove the tensioner roller (Already removed in the photo)
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Remove the belt
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Remove the throttle cable by tilting the throttle (as if you were pressing the pedal) and simply sliding it out of its housing
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Then pull on the sheath to release it from the support
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Turn the plastic screw a quarter turn and release it from its housing
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Disconnect the connectors from the injection box
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To disconnect the electrical plugs, press the metal tab and then pull the plug
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Disconnect the connector from the ignition box
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Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plug wire clamp rail.
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Disconnect the 2 fuel hoses going to the injection box
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Plug them with screws
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Also disconnect the electrical connector
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Open the 3 nuts securing the exhaust line.
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3rd photo after unscrewing to help you identify the positions of the 3 nuts more easily
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Unscrew the 2 nuts securing the rocker cover
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Remove the rocker cover
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Unscrew the cylinder head screws in a spiral pattern (Red circle => orange => yellow => green => sky blue => dark blue => pink => black => red square => orange square
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Remove the screws
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Tilt the cylinder head slightly, check that nothing has been forgotten (harness/mechanical element) and lift it to remove it. Then lay it flat, paying attention to the gasket plane
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Unscrew the ignition module mounting screws
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Remove the ignition module
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Also unscrew the cylinder head temperature sensor
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Clean the joint faces
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Unscrew the intake pipe fixing nuts
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Remove the intake pipe and clean the gasket surface
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Also unscrew and remove the 4 spark plugs
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Remove the rocker arm ramp and mark its assembly direction (using a piece of cardboard for example)
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The cylinder head is now bare, you can take it to the rectifier (STRONGLY recommended to have it rectified + tested)
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Unscrew the camshaft pulley screw, remove the pin and remove the pulley
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Remove the old seal using a screwdriver.
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Compare the new gasket with the old one
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Insert the new gasket by pushing it in by hand as far as possible
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Place the old gasket in front and tap with a rubber mallet to fully seat the new gasket.
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Install the new gaskets
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Install the intake pipe (Injection module removed, but this is not mandatory)
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Tighten (gradually) the fixing nuts
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Replace the spark plugs, tighten by hand first, then finish with a quarter turn with the ratchet
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Take the opportunity to install new spark plugs
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Install the new gaskets
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Place the exhaust manifold in place and gradually tighten the fixing nuts.
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Clean the joint faces
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Put gasket paste on the ignition module
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Gradually tighten the fixing screws
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Clean the joint faces
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Put some gasket paste on the thermostat housing
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Gradually tighten the fixing screws
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Also tighten the cylinder head temperature sensor
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Remove the old gasket
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Clean the joint surface well, there should be no residue left!
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Put the new seal in place (making sure that the 2 centering devices are present!)
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Position the cylinder head
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Replace the rocker arm ramp
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Place the cylinder head screws
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Tightening order for all following steps (snail tightening): Red circle => orange => yellow => green => light blue => dark blue => pink => black => red square => orange square
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Perform an initial tightening to 20Nm
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Perform a second tightening at 120°
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Use a CD with 120° markings if you don't have an angle key
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Perform a third tightening at 120°
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Proceed to reassemble the various elements and reconnect the various connectors.
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Refer to steps 22 to 11
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Perform an oil change on the vehicle, including replacement of the oil filter
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Fill again, and purge the cooling circuit
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It is recommended to perform a rocker arm clearance adjustment following this operation.
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Once the engine has warmed up for the first time, I advise you to remove the rocker cover and clean it again (a little mayonnaise is present)
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I also recommend a new oil change + purge of the cooling circuit after approximately 500 km in order to properly clean the circuit.
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9 Comments
Good morning,
Is it normal that the cylinder head gasket is different from the original one? There are missing water passage holes on the ignition side
Many thanks to the author of this tutorial. It is a great help to us!
You just need to add the tightening torques, and specify that when removing the cylinder head you need to tilt it front to back, and not lift the cylinder head upwards at the risk of damaging the cylinder liners.
Thank you very much, this tutorial is very well done and was very useful to me, maybe add all the tightening torques, external pulley, but frankly it's very good work.
Best regards,
Good morning,
Thank you for this very detailed tutorial.
I would just like to ask if there is not a SPY seal on the ignition side? I don't see it at all and I wonder what is supposed to make that side watertight? Just the O-ring in the distributor?
Thank you for your reply.