Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
8
Time Required
01:00:00
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
Introduction
It is advisable to change both bearings but this is not an absolute obligation.
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The car must be on level ground
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loosen the wheel studs using the ratchet and 17mm socket
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chock another wheel to prevent the car from moving and release the handbrake
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jack up the car, put a jack stand on it, lower the jack
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Completely unscrew the 4 wheel studs with the ratchet and 17mm socket
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remove the wheel
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put the wheel under the car for safety
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unscrew the drum retaining screw (in red photo 1) with the Torx T30 key
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use an impact screwdriver if necessary, it is an extremely effective tool for this task
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apply penetrating oil to the hub bearing surface (in yellow, photo 2)
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if the drum is difficult to remove, insert 8mm screws into the threads (circled in blue photo 3) and screw to help extraction
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You can give small hammer blows all around the drum to help get it out.
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behind the brake disc, apply penetrating oil to the screws
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undo:
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the abs sensor by unscrewing the torx T30 screw
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the hub-bearing fixing screws with the ratchet and 12mm socket
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remove the hub-bearing, taking care to keep the brake plate in place
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A bronze jet can be used to free the hub-bearing but avoid pulling on the brake line that goes to the brake cylinder (in blue)
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compare the two parts and make sure they are identical
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clean the range and use brake cleaner
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clean the screw threads with a wire brush
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grease the bearing to facilitate future disassembly
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present the hub-bearing (ABS sensor upwards)
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The brake backing plate is sandwiched between the axle and the hub-bearing. Everything needs to be aligned properly.
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to squeeze:
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the 4 hub-bearing screws at 55 Nm (apply thread lock)
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the abs sensor (clean it if necessary) at 8Nm
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Place the drum and align it with the hub
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A thin film of anti-seize paste can be applied to the hub to facilitate future disassembly.
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Tighten the T30 torx screw holding it to 5Nm
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Present the wheel and tighten the studs with the ratchet wrench and 17mm socket.
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A film of copper grease can be applied to the threads
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Raise the car slightly with the jack, remove the jack stand and lower the car.
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Finish tightening the studs with the torque wrench, torque of 100Nm
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Remove the shims on the other wheel
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4 Comments
Impossible de sortir le moyeu du support de frein
Même en tapant .wd40....
Arghhh
Thanks for this feedback =) that's also what I thought, especially since many mechanics don't put any in.
I put 65Nm rather than 55Nm => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjWRUZJq...
Hello, thanks for the tutorial, I tightened to 65nm (other pre-order elsewhere) but I used blue thread lock (normal) should I have used red thread lock?
THANKS
Hello, I think the blue threadlocker will work just fine. The red one would be a bit too strong in my opinion.
