Introduction
This tutorial explains how to change the rear bearings on a Volkswagen Polo III 1.3 i 55cv
Video Overview
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Retirez votre roue to access the drum brakes -
Remove the dust cover using multi-grip pliers
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Remove the pin by first prying the two ends apart with a flat screwdriver and pliers.
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Remove it using pliers
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Loosen the nut using the multi-grip pliers
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Unscrew it and remove it by hand
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the nut is not locked
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Hit the drum to move the bearing and washer back
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Remove the washer with your fingers
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Remove the outer bearing from the drum using a flat-head screwdriver or multi-grip pliers.
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Rotate the drum while pulling it out to remove it
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Don't force it too much, if it doesn't come out it's because the drum is hollowed out and the brake shoes are preventing it from coming out
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Present one of the holes in front of the automatic brake shoe adjustment lever, it is placed on the left side (approximately at 10:00) for the left rear wheel and on the right (approximately at 2:00) for the right rear wheel, use a light to see more clearly
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Using a flathead screwdriver, push the lever all the way up to reduce the gap between the brake shoes.
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This is what happens on the other side of the drum
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Clamp the drum in a vice if you have one. -
Position your multi-grip pliers on the last notch
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Use it to leverage by placing the beak under the seal on the inside of the drum
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Apply pressure to the pliers to extract the seal.
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You now have access to the inner bearing (the larger one)
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Simply remove it by hand
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Clean the grease deposited by the bearing
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Using a drift pin and a hammer, drive out the outer bearing cage (small)
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3 small slots are dedicated to the use of the pin punch
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Tap the pin punch moderately with the hammer to extract the outer bearing cage.
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Tap gently when the cage is almost at the end, place a cloth underneath to catch its ejection
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Place your pin punch on one of the 3 dedicated locations to drive out the inner bearing cage (large)
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Use a hammer to drive out the bearing cage.
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Place the new cage in its location (with the widest edge towards the inside), you have to force it in, use the old cage of the same diameter so as not to hit it directly with the hammer and make it easier to enter straight in
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place the old cage also with the wider edge at the bottom on top of the new one
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Hit the hammer moderately, checking after each blow that the cage does not go in crookedly.
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Be careful with your fingers when hammering, to do this tap with the side of the hammer
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The spacer will have reached its stop in its location once you hear a more metallic noise than the previous ones.
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Your new cage is now in its location, but you cannot remove the old cage, to do this you must drive it out with a pin punch.
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Turn the drum over
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Place your pin punch on the wide edge of the old cage and tap with the hammer to drive it out.
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Insert the large cage always with the widest edge at the bottom
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Just like the first cage, use the old one of the same diameter
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Place the old cage
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Use a hammer to drive the new cage into place.
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The cage will have arrived in its location once you hear a more metallic noise than the previous ones
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This time no need to chase the old cage, just remove it with your fingers
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Before installing the bearings you must grease the cages and the bearing housing.
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Place your new bearing (the largest one) in its location simply with your fingers.
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The side of the bearing with the smaller diameter is placed downwards.
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Spread the remaining grease on the bearing
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Place the new seal on top of the bearing, it fits easily
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Wipe the gasket in case any grease has gotten on top
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Check that you do not have any brake fluid leaks at the wheel cylinder rubbers
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Check if there is any material left on your jaws for proper braking use, if the rivet is at the level of the jaw it means that the latter are worn. Otherwise everything is normal.
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Use a small flathead screwdriver
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Clean your brake system and drum with brake cleaner
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Do not put brake cleaner on the bearings and the drum seal.
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Place the small bearing on the spindle axle and push
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Spread the grease on the bearing
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The axle spindle has a slot to accommodate the curvature of the washer, you need to align them to fit the washer
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Replace the washer on the steering knuckle
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Replace the nut on the steering knuckle
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Tighten it moderately using the multigrip pliers
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Rotate the drum to spread the grease on the bearings
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Loosen slightly until you hear a rubbing noise as you turn the drum
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Tighten it until you no longer hear this noise.
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This type of tapered bearing does not lock when tightened, it can be adjusted by hand without forcing.
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Place the locking cage on the nut
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The axle spindle has a hole on the top, align one of the holes in the cage so that you can pass the pin through later
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Pass the pin through the hole in the steering knuckle
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Tap the pin lightly with a hammer if the alignment is not perfect.
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Bend the pin back with pliers
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Tighten the ends on the washer using a pair of multi-grip pliers, it is used to hold the cage so that the nut does not come loose.
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Replace the cap by tapping it with a hammer if you do not have the special bell that prevents this deformation.
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Press the brake pedal repeatedly to bring the shoes closer to the drum before driving away.
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One other person completed this guide.
3 Comments
Normally, a tightening torque of 110Nm must be respected for the tapered bearing and the nut must be slightly loosened manually so that it is just possible to move the support washer in the radial direction, by simple pressure with the finger or with the end of a screwdriver, without levering.
Samir Bouguerra - Resolved on Release Reply
great tutorial I think it's really great to buy parts and have a tutorial to assemble them really well done luckily in life there are people who don't rest on their laurels thanks again oscaro and long live
didier gay - Resolved on Release Reply
After reassembling the key, what should be done with it please?
David GOMES - Resolved on Release Reply

