Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
12
Time Required
02:00:00 - 04:00:00
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
Introduction
Tutorial made on a Ford Mondeo MK3 2.0 TDCI 115
First of all for this tutorial, you should know that the manipulations to be done are not complicated but the size of the engine sometimes makes it more complex. However, you need to be well equipped, and especially have 2 handy uncles to help you (in concrete terms you need a second person). Finally, allow time (count 3 hours for disassembly/reassembly when you know exactly what to do).
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After lifting the car on the front right side and securing it with jack stands, remove the plastic cover giving access to the belt and rollers. To do this, remove a T25 torx screw (in green) and 2 screws using a 9 socket (in red).
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Open the hood of the car
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Get the Ford T303676 key. (homemade in my case). It is a thin and long key with 2 ends at the end that allow you to go into the notches of the tensioner. This tool is necessary because there is no room to pass a ratchet or anything else.
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In the second photo, the 2 notches that you will need to find with the tool.
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In photo 3, the tensioner to be relaxed. Place the two tips of the Ford tool in the notches. Pull towards you to compress the spring (green arrow) and relax the belt. In the meantime, the second person accompanying you must disengage the belt by passing not from above (hood side).
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Remove the turbo cover to have better access (and visibility) to the screws of the single piece that holds the tensioner and two of the rollers. To do this, unscrew 2 bolts with a 10 socket (red) and 2 screws with an 8 socket (green) (One is located at the back).
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Once dismantled, we have better visibility and more space.
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Remove the mass from the right engine support which will allow us to have better access to one of the rollers
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Disconnect the battery as a precaution before dismantling the alternator. To do this, remove the negative terminal then the positive terminal to avoid short-circuiting.
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Disassembly of the alternator is necessary to disassemble the single piece that holds the tensioner and 2 rollers. It is not necessary to disconnect the electrical parts of the alternator. To remove the alternator, 3 bolts must be removed. 2 with a 15 key located just under the alternator and accessible from the wheel side of the car.
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The third bolt is above the alternator, hidden behind an electrical cable sheath. It is accessible from the hood side and requires the use of the 13 socket.
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Once everything is removed, remove the alternator which slides along the 2 large screws at the bottom. Then place it so that it does not get in the way and without putting strain on the electrical cables.
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In order to change the tensioner and the idler roller, it is necessary to remove the monobloc that connects to the tensioner. To do this, it is necessary to remove 3 screws using the 13 socket. 2 are removed from the hood side, the third is easily visible from the wheel side of the car.
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Then remove the screw attached to the bottom of the tensioner (photo 2) so that you can remove the assembly.
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Once the whole thing is removed (from the top or the bottom, personally it was from the top), here is the part.
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On the part removed previously, you must change the idler roller (in green) with the new one provided using a T40 Torx key.
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Then you have to change the tensioner which contains a roller by unscrewing the screw (red arrow). Put the new tensioner, taking care to put the key in the right place (photo 2)
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We removed the engine support mass in order to change the roller fixed to the engine.
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After unscrewing the nut that holds the roller, the roller does not come out due to lack of space. You actually have to understand how it is made to remove it. You have to remove the washer from the bearing with a flat screwdriver. Then everything comes out by itself.
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Then just put the new roller in the same way. The round part, the roller (if it gets stuck a little, spread the motor with a crowbar a few mm). Finally put the washer (clip it back) and screw the nut.
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To change the damper pulley, you have to remove the 3 screws that hold the pulley using the impact wrench and a 15 socket. Having a good impact wrench and an impact socket is necessary, because everything is firmly screwed!
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Fit the new pulley and screw. The screwing must be to the torque then to the angle. It is necessary to screw with the torque wrench to 45 Nm then to 90°. To succeed in screwing, it is necessary to succeed in blocking the damper pulley, otherwise the assembly turns. Personally, we went back to the impact wrench by feeling (do not screw like brutes).
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To reassemble the assembly, pass the assembly through the top or bottom and start positioning the assembly in the engine. Before starting to fix the assembly, remember to position the belt in the right direction (do not put it everywhere but put it in such a way as to make it easier to put the belt back in place)
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Then fix the 3 screws of the monobloc (photo 2). Then fix the bottom of the tensioner (photo 3)
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Replace the alternator by putting it back on the rails and tighten the 2 bottom screws. Then tighten the 3rd top screw.
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Fit the new belt by compressing the tensioner using the Ford T303676 tool. The person helping you should fit the belt while you tension it. Check that the belt is correctly routed and that it is correctly placed on the various pulleys.
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Reconnect the battery by connecting the positive terminal then the negative terminal.
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Reconnect the engine mount ground.
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Replace the turbo cover
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Replace the plastic cover at the wheel, replace the wheel and lower the vehicle so that it rests on the wheels.
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Start the vehicle and check that the belt is rotating correctly.
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Reset the electric windows so that the automatic window lift works. To do this, lower the window then raise the window to the stop. Press again to raise the window as if to force it. The automatic window lift should work.
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You need to be well equipped and have time. The list of tools given is not exhaustive, but here is already an essential minimum.
The attached SKF pdf allows you to visualize the steps to follow.
Concerning the parts, I used an SKF kit and a Gates damper pulley. Other brands like Hutchinson, SNR and Contitech which are of quality can be taken. Moreover, note that the tensioner provided in the SKF kit is of Hutchinson brand and seems to be the original Ford (the Ford markings are erased on the new part but we see that it is for the Ford logo and the serial number).
Finally, note that I strongly recommend changing the rollers, the belt and the damper. Indeed, the old rollers were all at the end of their life, and the rubber of the damper was very degraded.
You need to be well equipped and have time. The list of tools given is not exhaustive, but here is already an essential minimum.
The attached SKF pdf allows you to visualize the steps to follow.
Concerning the parts, I used an SKF kit and a Gates damper pulley. Other brands like Hutchinson, SNR and Contitech which are of quality can be taken. Moreover, note that the tensioner provided in the SKF kit is of Hutchinson brand and seems to be the original Ford (the Ford markings are erased on the new part but we see that it is for the Ford logo and the serial number).
Finally, note that I strongly recommend changing the rollers, the belt and the damper. Indeed, the old rollers were all at the end of their life, and the rubber of the damper was very degraded.
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25 Comments
Hello
How did you remove the Allen screw from the tensioner roller because there was no space?
I don't really understand your question.
Regarding the tensioner roller, I removed the entire part (roller support and spring) and swapped it with the new part outside the vehicle (steps 5 and 6 of the tutorial).
For the roller which is separate (step 7), I think I used a combination wrench or an angled eye wrench.
Thank you for everything, impeccable, first time I did it, I was all alone so a bit of a hassle, madam just came at the end to help me loosen the belt, I made myself a tool of the same type as you, however to iron the belt, don't make a mistake otherwise we'll start again, we'll take it apart!
Result, I'm not a mechanic, just odd jobs normally, it took me 4h1/2!
Thanks again
Thanks for this tutorial!
I'm surprised it's such a hassle to change the kit on this model, compared to other cars... Access is not easy because it's very close to the chassis.
In fact, no choice but to remove the alternator.
Perfect for me (I didn't change my damper pulley because it was in very good condition.
Good morning,
A BIG thank you for this tutorial which has been of great service to me.
