Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
9
Time Required
02:00:00
Tutoriel complet
Ce tutoriel contribué par la communauté est complet et prêt pour l'examen de l'équipe Oscaro.
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
Introduction
Changing the rear drum brakes on Peugeot 107 1.0i 68ch
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Place the vehicle on a jack stand and remove the wheel.
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Remove the T30 torx screw
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Using one or two screwdrivers, lever and pivot to release the drum from the flange.
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Use light hammer blows to help loosen the drum.
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Flask
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Drum
Rather than using screwdrivers as levers to release the drum, it is better to use two M8 screws and gradually screw them into the tapped holes in the face of the drum: that's what they're there for!
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Receiver cylinder
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Brake segments
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Upper springs
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Rivet heads
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Lower springs
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Using pliers, unclip the 2 upper springs
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Using pliers, pinch the rivet head and compress the spring, while pivoting to release the rivet and thus remove the brake linings.
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Dislodge the lower return spring with pliers.
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Once the 3 springs and rivets are removed, the gaskets can be removed from the flange.
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Please note that one of the brake pads will be connected to the handbrake cable.
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Using pliers, compress the spring onto the handbrake cable and hold it.
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Using pliers, dislodge the cable stop from its location.
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Rigid brake fluid cable
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Receiver cylinder screw
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Slave cylinder bleed screw
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Unscrew the rigid brake fluid cable with an 11 wrench.
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Using an 8mm socket, unscrew the slave cylinder bolt.
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Once the slave cylinder is removed, brake fluid will leak from the brake fluid cable, use the bleeder screw cover.
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Use a good spray of brake cleaner to clean the surface of the flange.
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Reverse the operation to install the new slave cylinder.
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Still using pliers, compress the handbrake cable spring and insert the stop into its location on the corresponding brake lining.
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Place the other liner from the kit on the drum, being careful to pass the wear reminder device below the slave cylinder.
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Position the upper ends of the gaskets on the slave cylinder pistons.
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Make sure the top ends of the gaskets are seated on the slave cylinder pistons.
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Secure the linings to the drum with the new rivets and springs, compressing the spring and pivoting the rivet to lock it.
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Using pliers, hook the lower spring to the two lower ends of the brake pads.
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Once all the springs are in place, make sure that the upper ends of the gaskets are properly seated on the piston of the slave cylinder and the lower ends are properly seated on their stops.
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Replace the drum and screw it back in.
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Finish by bleeding the brake fluid.
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5 other people completed this guide.
7 Comments
Hello, there is an error regarding the drum output.
no lever to use to get it out.
on the drum there are two threaded holes of 10, just put two screws and screw them, this pushes the drum and allows a smooth exit.
There are errors in the tutorial with a pre-assembled kit it is impossible to mount it as in the tutorial you have to disassemble the wheel cylinder and the linings then summarily put the linings in place then reassemble the wheel cylinder. On the other hand on the bosh kit you have to tilt the lever 90 degrees of the play compensation system for alignment the white mark on the blue mark then adjust it to have the handbrake at the 3rd notch on the bosh kit for a 107 the lining holding rods do not pass through the hole provided you have to reuse the old ones
@kovillen88 Hello,
Yes, it was. But apparently, after discussing it with a mechanic, it is necessary to adjust the gap of the automatic catch system after reassembly. I ordered a kit and will try again. That said, it is not impossible that I damaged this device during assembly, it is a little complicated to pass the jaws behind the hub plate. Regards
Hello, on step 7, make sure you have compressed the handbrake cable spring to properly engage the cable in the notch in the lining. Kind regards
Good morning,
I did as described, by the way thank you for taking the time to do this tutorial, but I can't get the handbrake to work. I tried to tighten the cable at the lever, all I can do is have a lever that only works on 3 notches but the drums continue to roll freely. I of course checked that the end of the cable was properly engaged on the pads.
Fearing that the fittings were not the right model, I ended up removing part of the cable spring, without any more success. Any ideas?
THANKS.
Understanding wheel cylinder.
GOOD MORNING
surely translation problems but the “master cylinder” has no place in a drum… likewise the “rigid cable” of brake fluid… rather a brake pipe… in short……
