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  1. 
Place a basin under the lower radiator hose then disconnect it.

Once all the liquid has drained (open the cap of the jar to speed up the process) reconnect the hose

Once all the liquid has drained (open the cap of the jar to speed up the process) reconnect the hose
    • Place a basin under the lower radiator hose then disconnect it.

    • Once all the liquid has drained (open the cap of the jar to speed up the process) reconnect the hose

  2. 
Open the bleeder screw and radiator cap

Fill the radiator with coolant, as soon as the liquid begins to flow in a continuous stream through the bleed screw, close it.

Top up the fluid level in the radiator to the level of the cap, then close it
    • Open the bleeder screw and radiator cap

    • Fill the radiator with coolant, as soon as the liquid begins to flow in a continuous stream through the bleed screw, close it.

    • Top up the fluid level in the radiator to the level of the cap, then close it

  3. 
Same principle here, open the bleed screw and place the jar "high" (it must be higher than the rest of the circuit)
    • Same principle here, open the bleed screw and place the jar "high" (it must be higher than the rest of the circuit)

    • Fill the jar to the maximum level, then wait for the liquid to start flowing in a continuous stream through the bleed screw. When this is the case, close it again

    • It takes one to two minutes

    • Top up (about 3cm beyond the maximum) in the jar and reattach it.

    • Start the engine, check for leaks and that the fan is operating correctly.

Finish Line

4 other people completed this guide.

hrmuller t

Member since: 09/04/2017

3,352 Reputation

67 Guides authored

4 Comments

Hello, I broke my bleeder screw while unscrewing it. It's a brass screw on an aluminum block, it corrodes. I drilled the body of the screw with a 5 drill bit and re-tapped it, it's M6. I'm going to replace it with a solid steel screw.

Le Bail - Reply

Hello, I broke my bleed screw on the thermostat block. It's a brass screw on an aluminum block so it climbs a lot. I managed to drill the body of the screw with a 5 drill bit and I redid the tapping. It's M6. I'm going to replace the screw with a solid screw and not a bleed screw, and especially in steel.

Le Bail - Reply

Good morning,

- No cleaning of the radiator? No cleaning of the expansion tank?

- Step 2 photo 2: Is there not a risk of unscrewing the bleed screw because there is a risk of damaging it, breaking the bore or thread? (Same: for the cap under the front of the radiator because the tip is made of plastic and therefore very hard or even stuck, risk of giving way?

This tutorial is not complete, there are quite a few procedures missing on this 205 model.

AA B - Reply

I invite you to open the RTA before talking about an incomplete tutorial, all the steps for a NORMAL purge of the circuit are there, no risk of breakage...

hrmuller t -

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