Introduction
Here are the different steps for replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspensions on a Peugeot 207 1.6 HDI 110 FAP.
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Apply the handbrake and then put the vehicle on a jack stand only on the chosen side (here the right side). Finally, place chocks between each front wheel of the vehicle.
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Remove the wheel (here done using an impact wrench)
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Remove the plastic protection from the suspension (start by unclipping the part located under the spring)
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Then remove the 2nd protection covering the place where the silent block is located. Unscrew the first screw (10 socket) then using a small screwdriver, remove the second casing screw located behind (interior side of the vehicle).
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Unclip the handbrake cable bracket (using a screwdriver for leverage)
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After having moved this plastic support away by sliding it on its cable, pull the latter towards you and pass it under the metal tab (so that it does not get in the way for what follows)
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Disconnect and unclip the ABS sensor sockets (blue plugs) from their attachment and move the cables away by unclipping the ICTA sheath from its loops).
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Carefully unscrew the 4 long screws holding the rear axle to the vehicle chassis (female Torx socket E-16) then remove them.
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Place a jack under the suspension spring and then relieve the tension in the shock absorber by raising it slightly.
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Then remove the plastic cap located under the stop (inner side of the vehicle) in order to have access to the lower screw of the shock absorber.
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Unscrew the lower screw of the rear shock absorber (female Torx socket E-16).
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Using a pin punch, expel the screw by tapping it lightly on the other side and thus free the shock absorber from its lower screw.
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Gently lower the suspension using the jack which will cause the rear axle to lower on the unscrewed side.
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Note: When lowering the rear axle, you will hear a clicking sound. Don't worry, it's simply the small rigid brake pipe that will have unclipped itself.
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Also remove the suspension spring (which will no longer be compressed) and take the opportunity to clean it and check its condition.
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Unscrew the screw going through the silent block in its center using a 16 socket for the outside and an 18 flat wrench for the inside (hold the 18 wrench in place then loosen with the 16 socket on the outside using an extension)
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Remove the screw and its nut then lift the upper part and block it by placing it on the cylindrical part holding the silent block in order to release the latter.
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Using a drill and a size 8 metal drill bit, drill the rubber part of the silent block to loosen it. 3 holes at the top then 3 holes at the bottom.
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Using a 50 mm socket, an extension and an impact handle, hit the silent block with a mallet to remove it from its housing.
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Note: Be sure to position the socket correctly before striking so as not to damage the metal edges of the rear axle.
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Clean and then grease the support into which the new silent block will fit.
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There is a notch on the slave cylinder and this mark will allow the new silent block to be positioned as it should be.
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Using a permanent black marker, draw a line on either side, joining the two marks on each side of the silent block so that it can be perfectly positioned when inserted. Finally, grease the body of the silent block.
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Vehicle equipped with a DPF: Remove the additive tank with its pump. Disconnect the pump supply and its power supply, then turn the 3 spring-mounted screws located around the tank a quarter turn. Remove the tank, taking great care when handling the product (Eolys Powerflex) in the pocket.
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Place the press with the large plate on the outside then position the silent block, paying careful attention to the alignment of the line on the notch.
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Tighten (always on the outside) with a 22 mm socket, using an extension and a ratchet wrench with an extendable handle. The silent block fits in without any difficulty and fits into its housing with each turn of the wrench.
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Once in place, we can check that the silent block mark is perfectly aligned with the notch on the support.
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Reassemble everything in the correct order and tighten everything to the various manufacturer torques:
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The screw passing through the silent block: 40 Nm + 130°
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The 4 upper screws of the rear axle: 75 Nm
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Lower shock absorber screw: 93 Nm
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Wheel bolts: 90 Nm
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Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
2 other people completed this guide.
One Comment
thibaut.ansaldi did not contribute to my tutorial at all, I want to make that clear! The only modification that had been made by the latter and that I had to correct afterwards, was a big mistake on the photo of the silentbloc (not the right part at all!) And that's called professional??? I'm contacted before modifying (especially if it's to do stupid things!)