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Introduction

Changing the rear brakes (jaws + cylinder) on Clio II 1.5L dCi from 2003.

  1. 
With the car still on the ground and the handbrake on, start by loosening the wheel bolts, then remove the dust cover with a flat screwdriver and a hammer, then loosen the axle nut half a turn. This can be very tight and seized.
    • With the car still on the ground and the handbrake on, start by loosening the wheel bolts, then remove the dust cover with a flat screwdriver and a hammer, then loosen the axle nut half a turn. This can be very tight and seized.

  2. 
The vehicle is then lifted and secured with a jack stand. The wheel can then be removed and placed under the car.
    • The vehicle is then lifted and secured with a jack stand. The wheel can then be removed and placed under the car.

  3. 
We finish unscrewing the axle nut (30 mm) then we release the handbrake then we push the handbrake lever back with a small screwdriver.
    • We finish unscrewing the axle nut (30 mm) then we release the handbrake then we push the handbrake lever back with a small screwdriver.

  4. 
In most cases, the drum can be removed by hand by turning it a little in either direction or by using a mallet. If the drum is stuck (a lining coming loose, for example), you can use a puller, which is the case here.

We then have access to the old jaws.

We then have access to the old jaws.
    • In most cases, the drum can be removed by hand by turning it a little in either direction or by using a mallet. If the drum is stuck (a lining coming loose, for example), you can use a puller, which is the case here.

    • We then have access to the old jaws.

  5. 
Remove the old pins and cups using pliers or a dedicated tool (in red) to release the old shoes, then remove the handbrake cable (located behind, in green) with pliers or a dedicated tool, taking care not to damage it.

To remove the old cups, simply turn them a quarter turn as seen with the new cups and pins supplied with the new kit.

To remove the old cups, simply turn them a quarter turn as seen with the new cups and pins supplied with the new kit.
    • Remove the old pins and cups using pliers or a dedicated tool (in red) to release the old shoes, then remove the handbrake cable (located behind, in green) with pliers or a dedicated tool, taking care not to damage it.

    • To remove the old cups, simply turn them a quarter turn as seen with the new cups and pins supplied with the new kit.

  6. 
Clean the flange with brake cleaner and a brush. Do not use a blower, brake dust is very toxic!

Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor or handbrake cable.
    • Clean the flange with brake cleaner and a brush. Do not use a blower, brake dust is very toxic!

    • Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor or handbrake cable.

  7. 
Start unscrewing the hydraulic inlet pipe (in green) with a pipe wrench (11mm) so as not to damage the nut, then unscrew the two screws used to fix the cylinder (10 mm) (in red). Then, finish unscrewing the hydraulic line and remove the cylinder.

Brake fluid will leak out in small drops so have a container ready.

A purge will be performed at the end of the operation.
    • Start unscrewing the hydraulic inlet pipe (in green) with a pipe wrench (11mm) so as not to damage the nut, then unscrew the two screws used to fix the cylinder (10 mm) (in red). Then, finish unscrewing the hydraulic line and remove the cylinder.

    • Brake fluid will leak out in small drops so have a container ready.

    • A purge will be performed at the end of the operation.

  8. 
Clean the cylinder seat as before then install the new cylinder (remove the conduit plug) in the same way as when removing it.

Clean the cylinder seat as before then install the new cylinder (remove the conduit plug) in the same way as when removing it.

Clean the cylinder seat as before then install the new cylinder (remove the conduit plug) in the same way as when removing it.
    • Clean the cylinder seat as before then install the new cylinder (remove the conduit plug) in the same way as when removing it.

  9. 
Lightly grease the jaw support points (in red) with the grease provided in the kit. A little sachet is enough for both sides.

Lightly grease the jaw support points (in red) with the grease provided in the kit. A little sachet is enough for both sides.
    • Lightly grease the jaw support points (in red) with the grease provided in the kit. A little sachet is enough for both sides.

  10. 
The pre-assembled shoe kit is reinstalled in a similar way to the removal. The handbrake cable lever (in red) must be towards the rear of the car (here we are doing the right side). Do not forget to put the handbrake cable back. The green part replaces the shim of the pre-assembled kit.

Make sure that the jaws are firmly seated on the cylinder pistons.
    • The pre-assembled shoe kit is reinstalled in a similar way to the removal. The handbrake cable lever (in red) must be towards the rear of the car (here we are doing the right side). Do not forget to put the handbrake cable back. The green part replaces the shim of the pre-assembled kit.

    • Make sure that the jaws are firmly seated on the cylinder pistons.

    • Secure the kit with the cups, pins and springs provided. The operation can be done without suitable tools (simple pliers) but is quite complicated.

  11. 
Pull the handbrake one notch, then two. The nipple on the handbrake lever (in red) should come off the segment at the second notch.
    • Pull the handbrake one notch, then two. The nipple on the handbrake lever (in red) should come off the segment at the second notch.

    • If this is not the case, you need to adjust the handbrake (under the car). See the appropriate tutorial for more details.

  12. 
Remove the cap (in red) and put in place a hose with a bleeder can. Then slightly unscrew the bleeder screw (8mm). And ask another person to pump the brake pedal.
    • Remove the cap (in red) and put in place a hose with a bleeder can. Then slightly unscrew the bleeder screw (8mm). And ask another person to pump the brake pedal.

    • When there are no more bubbles, the bleed is good. Put some Dot4 brake fluid back into the jar.

    • You can also check its condition with a brake fluid tester (which measures the humidity level)

  13. 
Grease the axle and reassemble the drum.
    • Grease the axle and reassemble the drum.

    • The tightening torque for the axle nut is 175 Nm and 100 Nm for the wheel bolts. Replace the dust cover using a mallet.

    • Reassemble the wheel and place the vehicle back on the ground.

    • Once both sides are done, pump the brake pedal. You should hear a click. This is due to the rotation of the automatic adjustment gear used to position the shoes as close as possible to the drum. Pump until you no longer hear the 'clicks'.

    • Try it on the road, start with light braking before starting. Also test the handbrake on a slope.

Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

lcaron lc

Member since: 06/03/2020

109 Reputation

1 Guide authored

3 Comments

Perfect, it helped me a lot for my old Kangoo 1! Thanks

thomas78260 - Reply

And the axle circlip????

jpguilhon40 - Reply

The circlip visible after removing the central nut should not be removed, this is used to hold the bearings in the drum.

Letof21 -

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