Skip to main content

Introduction

Vehicle engine 1.4 HDi 70 hp

  1. In order to access the shock absorber mountings it is necessary to remove the mudguard. There are 4 plastic clips and a nut. Securing the vehicle: removing and refitting the wheel Using a flathead screwdriver, lift the rectangular center of the clip to unlock and remove it.
  2. Place a jack under the spring to compress the suspension and thus relieve the fixing screw. Use a 21 wrench to remove the nut, then remove the lower fixing axle. Use a 21 wrench to remove the nut, then remove the lower fixing axle.
    • Place a jack under the spring to compress the suspension and thus relieve the fixing screw.

    • Use a 21 wrench to remove the nut, then remove the lower fixing axle.

  3. The upper shock absorber mounting consists of a screw and a captive nut. Use a 16mm wrench to unscrew the axle. The shock body must be held before removing the axle. Remove the shock absorber by pulling it downwards.
    • The upper shock absorber mounting consists of a screw and a captive nut.

    • Use a 16mm wrench to unscrew the axle. The shock body must be held before removing the axle.

    • Remove the shock absorber by pulling it downwards.

  4. Compare the suspension dimensions. Insert the shock absorber into the chassis bracket and secure it with the screw. Tighten with a torque wrench to 4.5 Nm. Align the bottom of the shock absorber with the rear cradle and then place the axle to position it. Tighten the nut using a torque wrench to 9.3 Nm.
    • Compare the suspension dimensions.

    • Insert the shock absorber into the chassis bracket and secure it with the screw. Tighten with a torque wrench to 4.5 Nm.

    • Align the bottom of the shock absorber with the rear cradle and then place the axle to position it. Tighten the nut using a torque wrench to 9.3 Nm.

  5. Lower the jack.
    • Lower the jack.

    • Reassemble the mudguard and the wheel.

    • Do the same procedure for the other shock absorber.

Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

hemissi-nizar

Member since: 01/16/2017

21,057 Reputation

88 Guides authored

7 Comments

For mine, it is impossible to loosen the bolt with the 21 key, the bolt gun does nothing.

On a C2 vts of 200,000km

When I took out the shock absorber, the silent block remained inside. I had to use the grinder for 1h30. (Well yes, of course when the silent block is left on it, you can't put it back up like that).

I think the law will be the same even in 2 weeks with wd40 in it.

We'll see.

But it was not a pleasure. If it does not come out the best I think is to take out the caliper and disc to play with the grinder and have a flap disc too.

Chazelle - Reply

Great tutorial, very well explained, the photos are great. A real plus!

Well, not so easy with rust and the years, but with patience, we can do it. I've known much harder things...!

a tip! Never hit a threaded axle directly with a hammer, but always leave the nut (loose) in place!

Olivier CARON - Reply

Good evening, it is mainly that the bolt welds under the effect of rust..without an impact wrench the work does not turn and this allows it to be unrusted..; otherwise a small housing under the suspension arm to spray penetrating oil...otherwise a real mess to put the bumper bolt back...the best is to put it back upside down....

jean-francois Schleret - Reply

In my case too, on a C2, it was impossible to extract the lower axle. However, this does not prevent the shock absorber from being extracted, you just have to be delicate with the flexible brake line.

Great tutorial!

Guilhem DEJEAN - Reply

Thanks for the tutorial

Shock Absorber I/O Operation Like a Pro

LIONEL DURAND - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 4

Past 7 Days: 25

Past 30 Days: 72

All Time: 11,160