Changing the front brake discs and pads on Skoda Fabia

On this model, it was the wear indicator that warned me that the pads were starting to wear out... That said, as you will see later, there is still some room for improvement...

So you need to see where your pads are at, as well as your discs...

We start by raising the vehicle so that we can remove the front wheels.

I invested heavily in a "Palmer", this small tool which allows you to precisely measure the thickness of the brake discs. The manufacturer notes an original thickness of 22mm, with a minimum of 19mm.

Here we are almost at 19.5mm. If I only change the pads, I will have to change the discs before the new pads are completely worn out, so I decide to change everything now.

First, we will have to give the pads a little slack. To do this, we must "unstick" them from the disc (the pads pinch the disc). When "unsticking", the piston will move back, and therefore will set the brake fluid in motion, which risks pressurizing the brake fluid reservoir.

To avoid such a disaster, we open the brake fluid reservoir, without removing the (yellow) cap, because impurities could viciously slip in (and we don't want that).

So we unscrew the lid, but not completely.

We can now peel the pad off the disc, and push it back in using a flat-tipped screwdriver to pry it off.

Be careful not to damage the piston seal, without which the brake fluid seal is no longer ensured!

To work more easily, you can orient the wheels towards the side you are working on.

To remove the caliper, you have to unscrew 2 columns. They are protected by a plastic cap that can be easily removed with a flat-tipped screwdriver (always the same one if you are following).

And here ... Attention. You need a 7 mm Allen key (6-sided). If you have not specially bought one, do not look in your classic game, it is not there. (Look anyway, you never know!)

This size is not common, so you need to get one specifically to change your pads.

Once you have the tool, you can unscrew your columns with peace of mind (one at the top, one at the bottom, as in the photo).

Here are the 2 unscrewed columns. We can see here that they are a little dirty. A good cleaning is necessary, and we can even add a little grease (not on the thread!) so that the pads slide better (this is notably what can cause noise when braking).

We can now remove the caliper. It is still attached to the car by the brake hose. Above all, do not let it hang by the hose, at the risk of damaging the hose. The best thing to do is to find a small support at the right height to let it rest on.

Essential step in any Oscaro tutorial: comparing the parts!

Admire the work!

In the 2nd photo, you can see that even though the wear indicator indicated that it was time to think about changing the pads, we still had a little margin!

I don't mean to say that you should drive with the wear indicator on! but simply that you have plenty of time to get home if the indicator comes on and that you have time to order pads on your favorite site ;)

In my case, I could have done 1000km more without any worries in my opinion.

In the 3rd photo, we see the plate which contains the wear indicator.

Be careful, for some pairs of pads, there is one pad made to go inside the piston and the other to go in the caliper. I strongly advise you to take all the pads out of the pack and define which goes where before assembling anything.

To put the pads back in place, you have to push the piston back completely. Either you have invested heavily in a piston pusher, or you can do it with whatever you have at hand: here a clamp and the used pad were just as effective!

The used pad allowed me to not damage the piston seal, and to press on its entire surface at the same time.

In the 2nd photo, we see that the piston is completely pushed back.

The caliper is now ready to receive the new pads.

Before putting your new pads back in, give them a quick wipe with a wire brush to clean off any accumulated grime that can jam the mechanisms.

Be careful not to be overzealous, however, and to protect the piston seal during this operation!

The new pads fit easily: one fits into the piston (hollow) and the other into the housing opposite the piston.

If you put your pads in incorrectly, you will see it later because you will not be able to put the caliper back in correctly.

When fitting the pad to the wear indicator, don't forget to reconnect it!

Additional steps for those who also want to change their brake discs. If you are only changing the pads, skip to the step of repositioning the caliper directly.

So here we are going to unscrew a small screw (torx 30) which allows the positioning of the disk. A little dab of penetrating oil on the screw can help it come out easily.

Sometimes the disc can be stuck on the axle. In this case, take a small hammer and tap lightly to detach it.

In my case, as soon as the screw came off, the disc came with it!

A quick wipe with a wire brush to clean as you go.

A comparison is necessary: diameter, thickness, presence of the positioning screw...

The new discs are fitted using the new positioning screw. Here, the tip is now cross-headed, which changes absolutely nothing!

Be careful, on some discs, the surface is covered with paraffin. This allows the discs to be kept in perfect condition. BUT it does not stick!! So, before mounting your discs, if they are covered with this paraffin (a sort of opaque film), sand your discs to remove this film.

Here in the photos of the tutorial, I don't have this film, we see the metal directly (it shines!).

Your pads being positioned on the caliper, you will now have to put it back in place: using the columns! (all clean if you followed me!)

You have to position the caliper by wedging it at the bottom first. The caliper and the pad form an inverted U, with the two branches going on each side of the support. This is where if you have incorrectly positioned your pads, you can't go any further!

Once the bottom is in position, it is the top that must be placed against the support (arrow in the first photo).

Now you can screw the columns back in with the 7mm key. Be careful not to force them if they are not in line! If you force the thread, it will be complicated!

For my part, it happened to me (the column no longer sank in halfway), and I got out of it by cleaning the thread of the column and the tapping of the caliper (with classic degreaser: authorized as long as it is not on the surfaces coming into friction).

Don't forget to put back the plastic caps that protect the columns.

A little bit of brake cleaner will clean the surfaces (the surfaces that will come into friction). Do not put grease on the pads or discs!! Only brake cleaner is allowed!

Remember to close the brake fluid reservoir.

Replace the wheels and rest the vehicle on its 4 legs.

IMPORTANT: Before testing your new pads, while stationary: press the brake pedal several times. The fluid will move until it puts pressure on the piston on the pad.

Remember to check the level (if too much, the best thing is to remove some with a syringe). You can now go for a walk around the neighborhood and carefully test your operations!

The wear indicator has disappeared :)

For the first 500 kilometers (on average), try to protect your brakes as much as possible: gentle and progressive braking.