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Introduction

Over the years, the exhaust line corrodes and may cause problems (the line becoming detached while driving or it may fail the technical inspection). It is therefore useful to check its condition and replace it if necessary.

Not that complicated, but you need to have a bit of time in front of you!

  1. 
First, you need to start raising the car to gain access to the exhaust line.

You're going to spend a lot of time under there, so make sure everything is secure: ramps, jack stands, wooden blocks. It's a shame to die for an exhaust line!
    • First, you need to start raising the car to gain access to the exhaust line.

    • You're going to spend a lot of time under there, so make sure everything is secure: ramps, jack stands, wooden blocks. It's a shame to die for an exhaust line!

  2. 
Here we see the part of the exhaust line that interests us. It consists of the flexible hose (braid visible in the second photo) and goes to the middle of the car (3rd photo).

Everything is simply tightened by clamps. To help you, the day before your work, give it a shot of lubricant (without naming names: a small blue and yellow spray :D). It will work a little already, and when you want to disassemble, it will help you.

Everything is simply tightened by clamps. To help you, the day before your work, give it a shot of lubricant (without naming names: a small blue and yellow spray :D). It will work a little already, and when you want to disassemble, it will help you.
    • Here we see the part of the exhaust line that interests us. It consists of the flexible hose (braid visible in the second photo) and goes to the middle of the car (3rd photo).

    • Everything is simply tightened by clamps. To help you, the day before your work, give it a shot of lubricant (without naming names: a small blue and yellow spray :D). It will work a little already, and when you want to disassemble, it will help you.

  3. 
We will therefore start by loosening the clamps at each end.

The method: lubricant and hammer blow! All that is well glued, with the added calamine, you should not hesitate to go for it! (be careful not to deform the tube though!)

A 17 key for the side with the hose. To remove the collar (which covers the two parts): use a flat screwdriver (not an easy operation, you have to force a little).
    • We will therefore start by loosening the clamps at each end.

    • The method: lubricant and hammer blow! All that is well glued, with the added calamine, you should not hesitate to go for it! (be careful not to deform the tube though!)

    • A 17 key for the side with the hose. To remove the collar (which covers the two parts): use a flat screwdriver (not an easy operation, you have to force a little).

  4. 
For the other side (the one in the middle of the car), a 14 wrench is needed. You can see in the photo that one part is completely corroded while the other is not: my wife had the exhaust pipe changed the first part of the exhaust line. Except that now, it's the second part of the line that needs changing!

For the other side (the one in the middle of the car), a 14 wrench is needed. You can see in the photo that one part is completely corroded while the other is not: my wife had the exhaust pipe changed the first part of the exhaust line. Except that now, it's the second part of the line that needs changing!
    • For the other side (the one in the middle of the car), a 14 wrench is needed. You can see in the photo that one part is completely corroded while the other is not: my wife had the exhaust pipe changed the first part of the exhaust line. Except that now, it's the second part of the line that needs changing!

  5. 
Now that everything is loosened, the part to be changed is only held by the silent blocks (photo 1 in red). The silent blocks are linked to a metal part, fixed by 2 screws (in blue). A 10mm socket will be necessary to extract them. Keep the nuts! (because the nuts are not supplied with the replacement silent blocks!)

Now we need to remove the exhaust pipe and the pipe that connects it to the part we want to change. The exhaust pipe is held only by 2 silent blocks (photo 2).
    • Now that everything is loosened, the part to be changed is only held by the silent blocks (photo 1 in red). The silent blocks are linked to a metal part, fixed by 2 screws (in blue). A 10mm socket will be necessary to extract them. Keep the nuts! (because the nuts are not supplied with the replacement silent blocks!)

    • Now we need to remove the exhaust pipe and the pipe that connects it to the part we want to change. The exhaust pipe is held only by 2 silent blocks (photo 2).

    • Once the exhaust pipe is separated from the silent blocks, you must hold it up high (with 2 empty oil cans) so that the line does not fall to the ground.

    • This gives you time to return to the middle of the car to remove the other silent blocks from the part to be changed.

    • So your line is completely detached from the car.

  6. 
Crucial step: did I buy the right part?!!!

The time has come to compare the parts: cold sweats...

In the first photo we can clearly identify the part to be changed. We check the length and diameter, the flexible part...
    • Crucial step: did I buy the right part?!!!

    • The time has come to compare the parts: cold sweats...

    • In the first photo we can clearly identify the part to be changed. We check the length and diameter, the flexible part...

    • For the silent blocks, same exercises on the dimensions, and especially the spacing between the two screws!

    • The collars to be changed also require a check of their diameter.

  7. 
A makeshift repair had been made to plug the gaping hole... (a sort of bandage). But at this level, it is still better to replace the part!

A makeshift repair had been made to plug the gaping hole... (a sort of bandage). But at this level, it is still better to replace the part!

A makeshift repair had been made to plug the gaping hole... (a sort of bandage). But at this level, it is still better to replace the part!
    • A makeshift repair had been made to plug the gaping hole... (a sort of bandage). But at this level, it is still better to replace the part!

  8. 
We start by fixing the silent blocks. We take the 2 small nuts (that we had carefully kept!) to fix the new part on the chassis.

Then, we will have to fix the new part in these new rubbers. To make the operation easier, put a little lubricant, it goes in all by itself! (by forcing a little anyway!)

In the third photo, you can see the new part inserted into the brand new silent blocks.
    • We start by fixing the silent blocks. We take the 2 small nuts (that we had carefully kept!) to fix the new part on the chassis.

    • Then, we will have to fix the new part in these new rubbers. To make the operation easier, put a little lubricant, it goes in all by itself! (by forcing a little anyway!)

    • In the third photo, you can see the new part inserted into the brand new silent blocks.

  9. 
Then put the new clamps in place (I replaced the one on the flexible part side, and kept the same one for the other side).

I advise you to proceed as follows:

1. fixing the new line to the silent blocks
    • Then put the new clamps in place (I replaced the one on the flexible part side, and kept the same one for the other side).

    • I advise you to proceed as follows:

    • 1. fixing the new line to the silent blocks

    • 2. First tightening of the clamp on the flexible side (but do not tighten completely)

    • 3. Positioning the exhaust pipe (high on the cans), then first tightening of the tube with the new part.

    • 4. Tighten the clamp on the flexible side, then tighten on the other side.

Conclusion

By taking your time and being methodical, this operation is not complicated. However, you must be well equipped and clear enough space under the car, while remaining safe.

One other person completed this guide.

yann.prehu

Member since: 10/12/2017

3,592 Reputation

19 Guides authored

One Comment

good explanation and complete photo report

bernard.le-gendre0941 - Resolved on Release Reply

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