Difficulty
Easy
Steps
9
Time Required
00:30:00
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
Introduction
There is no electric fuel pump but a manual re-priming pump so if the fuel level in the tank is too low you will not be able to re-prime the pump.
Parts
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Fuel filter housing
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Fuel arrival
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Repriming pump
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Air bleed screw
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Water bleed screw
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With a 19mm socket unscrew the screw. Do not lose the copper gaskets which are not supplied with your new filter.
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It is not necessary to remove the screw, just unscrew it a few turns.
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Take a small container to collect the mixture of water and diesel that you are going to drain and place it under the filter housing.
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Fit a 6mm internal diameter hose onto the bleed screw and place the other end of the hose in your container.
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Unscrew the bleeder screw by hand.
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Let the fuel drain until nothing more is leaking.
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The housing is secured by a long screw located underneath.
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Place rags under the housing to catch any drops of diesel that fall.
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Using a 6mm Allen key, remove the screw
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Using a small flat screwdriver, remove the old seal that remained in its housing, clean with a dry cloth then put in the new one.
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Inside the case, remove the rubber gasket.
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Remove the screw.
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Take out the filter.
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The filter is soaked in diesel.
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Collect the spring and washer.
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Clean the filter housing.
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Replace the screw.
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Replace the washer and spring.
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Insert the new fuel filter .
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Replace the rubber seal.
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Replace the housing in place and tighten it with the 6mm Allen key.
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Tighten the fuel inlet screw.
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Check that the water bleed screw is securely closed.
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Open the air bleed screw fully.
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Press the primer pump until fuel flows from the air bleeder screw, then close the screw.
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Clean the work area if necessary before starting.
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7 other people completed this guide.
12 Comments
attached is a reassembly diagram which seems the most logical to complement this tutorial, the filter must be at the top and compressed
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Hello, thank you very much for the tutorial, very clear and easy to follow
I have had express for 5 years and watched/assisted on quite a few small DIY jobs, but replacing the filter is a first so I wanted to follow your tutorial...
on the other hand a mechanic friend does not agree on the assembly of the filter in the housing, he did it in another order after the screw:
spring, washer, rubber seal and then filter
It seems to be good, and he also told me that it was assembled like that when he took it apart.
Apparently with the assembly as in the tutorial the filter would be in the water in the box.
How he did it, the filter was kept under pressure by the spring, but with the assembly as in the tutorial the spring was inside the filter and was not of much use...
Can someone please enlighten me on the correct assembly order?
Same observations on my side I have the Renault technical book which also does not specify anything on the order of reassembly ... by logical deduction I arrive at the same conclusion as you there is an error in this tutorial! because if we reassemble with the filter at the bottom and a spring which does not compress the filter upwards then the liquid and the particles cannot be filtered ...
sudrie -
Hello, excellent tutorial, nothing to complain about. I was able to change my filter in 20 minutes.
On the other hand, some precision for priming once the filter has been replaced. In my case, it was impossible to get the fuel to come even by pumping on the priming pump. After a few hours, I decided to add fuel to the tank (around 5l) which exerted enough pressure to make the fuel rise in the system. Then purge the pump as indicated in the article and purge at the injection pump to expel the air from the circuit.
The car left in 5 minutes.
Thanks Laurent for this very detailed tutorial :)
Some additional details:
- This filter model was also fitted to the Super 5 diesels of the 90s.
- If the filter is not clogged, simply remove the air purge valve so that the diesel can flow through the drain screw, after unscrewing it 2-3 turns. It is not necessary to unscrew the inlet Banjo fitting.
- On my 1993 car, the drain screw was “seized”. I was able to unscrew it using WD40 and a pair of wire strippers (the advantage is that the jaws of the pliers penetrate the “teeth” of the screw to grip it better)
- Filter equivalent to the original PURFLUX C112: VALEO 587908
- Tightening torque of the bowl fixing screw: 9 Nm ( https://www.forum-super5.fr/index.php?/t... )
- It is possible to prime the circuit using the manual pump located on the filter housing even if the bowl is empty, provided that the tank cap is removed while purging.
Hello how to replace a hard fuel filter Renault Kangoo express 1.9 tdi phase 1 from 2001. Thank you
Hello, I can't loosen the GO inlet, I don't dare force it too much, but I can see that the tank has been mistreated as if a previous mechanic had tried to force it to turn.
Good morning,
To reprime, you have to open the air bleed screw, not the water one. If your fuel level in the tank is too low, it will be almost impossible to reprime, it has already happened to me, I had to fill the tank with a can of diesel to be able to reprime.
Hello, first of all thank you for this tutorial, really clear and precise with all these photos. But I have a problem with the re-priming, because I pumped as much as I could, no fuel comes out of the water purge after having unscrewed to the max. I managed to start then the engine stalled. Impossible to restart since. I'm afraid I flooded the engine. I'll try again in a few hours. If you have an idea for this starting problem I'm interested. :) thank you
Thanks, apparently it also applies to the 1.6 D
Thank you. Quite simple intervention when you know that the case is held by the BTR screw that you can't see, it can become very long when you try to remove it without knowing.
magnificent. I don't know how much it would have cost me at the garage. a 1992 car, you shouldn't invest in it....thanks for all the details.
