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Introduction

Working on struts is very dangerous and even fatal. If you are a beginner, hesitant or do not have quality equipment, do not touch anything.

There are 2 types of shock absorbers: oil and gas.

If your new shock absorbers are oil-filled and the rod is pushed in, this is normal, but if they are gas-filled, the rod must be raised as far as possible.

  1. 
Screw holding the shock absorber in the spindle.

Ecrous

Screw holding the cup in the chassis.
    • Screw holding the shock absorber in the spindle.

    • Ecrous

    • Screw holding the cup in the chassis.

    • Remove the shock rod cap.

  2. 
Using a wire brush, clean the nuts and screw threads.

Spray with penetrating oil/lubricant.

Using an 18mm ring spanner, tighten the head of the screw.
    • Using a wire brush, clean the nuts and screw threads.

    • Spray with penetrating oil/lubricant.

    • Using an 18mm ring spanner, tighten the head of the screw.

    • Using an 18mm socket and an extension (the nuts are tightened very tightly) loosen the nuts.

    • Remove the screws

  3. 
Check that your universal joint is coupled to the gearbox and held by a plate which is fixed by screws.
    • Check that your universal joint is coupled to the gearbox and held by a plate which is fixed by screws.

    • On some models there is no plate, the cardan is just fitted, so when you pull on the spindle, the cardan comes out and the oil flows.

  4. 
Remove the 2 screws with a 13mm socket.

Now the strut rests only on the small plate above the spindle.

Hold the strut.
    • Remove the 2 screws with a 13mm socket.

    • Now the strut rests only on the small plate above the spindle.

    • Hold the strut.

    • Shoot the rocket.

    • Pull the strut out to the right.

  5. 
Much more stable and safe than "hand" compressors, you still have to be careful. Although the spring will be well engaged in the claws, there is always a risk that once under pressure it will "jump".

Claw for the strut

Guide rail with locking screw
    • Much more stable and safe than "hand" compressors, you still have to be careful. Although the spring will be well engaged in the claws, there is always a risk that once under pressure it will "jump".

    • Claw for the strut

    • Guide rail with locking screw

    • Claws for the spring

    • Spring retaining claws. They slide and lock into the rail to fit the spring.

    • Pressure management pedals

    • Pressure pedal

    • Pedal to release pressure

  6. 
Compress the spring until the cup is free.

Compress the spring until the cup is free.

Compress the spring until the cup is free.
    • Compress the spring until the cup is free.

  7. 
Choice of tools:

Either you use an impact wrench and a 21mm socket will be sufficient.

Either you will need a 6mm BTR socket and a 21mm curved ring spanner or a 21mm through-end ratchet spanner.
    • Choice of tools:

    • Either you use an impact wrench and a 21mm socket will be sufficient.

    • Either you will need a 6mm BTR socket and a 21mm curved ring spanner or a 21mm through-end ratchet spanner.

  8. 
Due to their horizontal storage, air bubbles may form in the oil circuit, so they must be purged before installation.

Move the shock rod up and down several times to bleed it.
    • Due to their horizontal storage, air bubbles may form in the oil circuit, so they must be purged before installation.

    • Move the shock rod up and down several times to bleed it.

  9. 
Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.

I reused the old bellows which was in good condition.
    • Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.

    • I reused the old bellows which was in good condition.

    • To tighten the shock absorber rod nut, you need a 22mm curved ring spanner.

Finish Line

3 other people completed this guide.

laurent.immo13003

Member since: 03/03/2016

12,959 Reputation

155 Guides authored

One Comment

Hello, I am looking for the reference of the cup washer under the nut, does anyone know this one?

lorant - Resolved on Release Reply

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