Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
9
Time Required
02:00:00
Tutoriel complet
Ce tutoriel contribué par la communauté est complet et prêt pour l'examen de l'équipe Oscaro.
Ce tutoriel a été créé par la communauté
User contributed
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Place the vehicle on a level surface, release the handbrake and engage first gear.
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Take a 19 socket and loosen the rear wheel nuts.
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Locate the lifting bracket just in front of the rear wheel. Place the hydraulic jack under the lifting point and gently raise the vehicle.
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Once the wheel is no longer touching the ground, place a jack stand or a wedge under the wheel triangle and then place the vehicle back on the support. Check that it is properly wedged.
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Once this is done, completely loosen the 5 nuts and remove the wheel.
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Loosen the two caliper screws using a 12 socket.
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Remove the upper part of the caliper and hold it using a tensioner taken from the suspension spring.
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Remove the caliper bracket using a 21 socket.
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If the screws are tight, do not hesitate to use an extension to facilitate disassembly.
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Take a 10 XZN socket and place it on the brake disc screw. Take a mechanic's hammer and strike (moderately) the socket about ten times to release the screw.
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Hold the disc by hand and loosen the brake disc screw. Then, remove the brake disc.
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If the disc does not come off, hit it with the hammer from behind to detach it from the wheel hub.
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Clean the disc seat on the hub using a piece of sandpaper.
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Clean the brake caliper where the brake pads are located using a wire brush.
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Apply brake cleaner to the caliper and piston to thoroughly degrease.
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You can put some copper grease on the brake disc seat on the wheel hub. This will make the next disassembly easier.
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Be careful not to damage the piston blowhole when cleaning with the wire brush.
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Probably the most tedious operation of this maintenance. Equip yourself with the piston pusher kit.
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First, you need to choose the flange that will go to the piston side in the piston pusher kit. The piston has two notches that allow you to put the flange in place and drive the piston.
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Then, take the piston pusher which allows you to turn clockwise (R) and put in place the plate which will be positioned in place of the outer pad.
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Place the flange on the piston pusher and place the piston pusher on the caliper.
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Hand-tighten the screw that separates the flange from the plate and thus locks the piston pusher in the caliper.
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Turn the piston pusher clockwise to push the piston in as far as it will go.
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Be careful to open the brake fluid reservoir and check that the brake fluid level is not too high in the reservoir after pushing the piston back. Remove fluid using a syringe if necessary.
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Once the piston is pushed back completely, remove the piston pusher by unscrewing the tool's clamping screw.
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All that remains is to put the new parts in place.
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Place the brake disc well back in its housing and tighten the locking screw. It is advisable to replace it each time the disc is changed.
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Tighten the screw moderately, it is only there to hold the brake disc to prevent it from falling.
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Reassemble the caliper bracket.
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Put a little copper grease on the pad slides before putting them in place to make it easier to move the pads.
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Place the new pad slides on the caliper bracket. Be careful to center them in relation to the brake disc.
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Put the new brake pads in place. There is no direction, except for the lining on the brake disc side.
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Removed the caliper tensioner and placed the caliper on the pads.
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Screw the caliper using the new screws provided in the pad kit.
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It is essential to replace the caliper screws each time the pads are changed.
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Check that the caliper slides smoothly back and forth after tightening and that the brake disc turns freely without rubbing on the pad slides.
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If necessary (depending on the side of the vehicle), reconnect the wear sensor to the harness.
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Degrease the brake disc one last time using brake cleaner.
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reassemble the wheel, tightening the nuts by hand and in a cross pattern.
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Remove the chock or jack stand, remove the vehicle from the jack and tighten the wheel to the correct torque (approximately 130 Nm) using a torque wrench.
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You have done one side, all that remains is to repeat the operation on the other side following the same steps.
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Be sure to "pump" the brake pedal several times once both sides are finished before starting the vehicle. This will seat the pistons on the new pads.
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Here it is! The rear brake system is clean and new. A running-in will be done during the first 500 kilometers (less important for the rear). You can check that the entire part of the brake disc is well used by the pads.
The task is quite simple, but it does require a bit of rigor because it involves a security element.
Here it is! The rear brake system is clean and new. A running-in will be done during the first 500 kilometers (less important for the rear). You can check that the entire part of the brake disc is well used by the pads.
The task is quite simple, but it does require a bit of rigor because it involves a security element.
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6 Comments
Hello, great tutorial. However, does pushing the piston back pose a risk to the ABS system: piping, hoses, fittings, hydraulic block, etc.?
Does this tutorial work for T6?
Good morning,
In my opinion there is no risk for the ABS, the ABS block is closed when the engine is stopped.
Furthermore, the ABS sensor is not touched for this operation.
Be careful to open the brake fluid reservoir during the operation and check the level when pushing the piston back because the level will rise in the reservoir.
I don't know about the T6 but most rear disc brake systems use this setup.
Good mechanics!
Merci, super tutoriel.
where are the glow plugs on the Volkswagen t5 1l9 van please
Thank you for this well done tutorial.
I remain a little perplexed about the copper grease because it remains grease which is found quite close to the braking elements.
In principle, a good cleaning and descaling is sufficient.
