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Introduction

Working on struts is very dangerous and even fatal. If you are a beginner, hesitant or do not have quality equipment, do not touch anything.

There are 2 types of shock absorbers: oil and gas.

If your new shock absorbers are oil-filled and the rod is pushed in, this is normal, but if they are gas-filled, the rod must be raised as far as possible.

In this tutorial, the new shock absorbers are gas-filled.

The intervention is performed on the left side because this is the side on which the most precautions must be taken.

  1. Identify anything attached to the strut that will need to be removed later. Stabilizer bar link ABS sensor
    • Identify anything attached to the strut that will need to be removed later.

    • Stabilizer bar link

    • ABS sensor

    • Bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle.

    • Brake hose

  2. The suspension cups are held by 3 screws but only 2 are accessible, so the apron and windshield wipers must be removed. Using a small flat screwdriver, remove the caps. Using a 14mm socket remove the nuts.
    • The suspension cups are held by 3 screws but only 2 are accessible, so the apron and windshield wipers must be removed.

    • Using a small flat screwdriver, remove the caps.

    • Using a 14mm socket remove the nuts.

    • Using a windshield wiper puller, remove the windshield wipers (a few hammer blows on the screw if you don't have the tools will suffice, but be careful of the windshield).

  3. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on each side of the car. Locate the 5 staples. Place one screwdriver in the top of the clip and one in the bottom.
    • Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on each side of the car.

    • Locate the 5 staples.

    • Place one screwdriver in the top of the clip and one in the bottom.

    • Leverage with the screwdrivers and

    • with long nose pliers pull the staple.

  4. On each side of the apron, remove the protective covers by pulling on them. They are held in place by 2 plastic clips. Gently pull the apron. The apron is still connected to the windshield washer hose.
    • On each side of the apron, remove the protective covers by pulling on them. They are held in place by 2 plastic clips.

    • Gently pull the apron.

    • The apron is still connected to the windshield washer hose.

    • Windshield washer hose.

    • Apron

  5. Using a 13mm socket remove the 3 screws. Using a 13mm socket remove the 3 screws.
    • Using a 13mm socket remove the 3 screws.

  6. Place a flathead screwdriver on the clip stop and tap it with a hammer. Place a flathead screwdriver on the clip stop and tap it with a hammer. Place a flathead screwdriver on the clip stop and tap it with a hammer.
    • Place a flathead screwdriver on the clip stop and tap it with a hammer.

  7. Pull the sensor at its 2 fasteners. Place a 14mm open-end wrench on the tie rod locknut and loosen the nut with a 16mm ring wrench. Place a 14mm open-end wrench on the tie rod locknut and loosen the nut with a 16mm ring wrench.
    • Pull the sensor at its 2 fasteners.

    • Place a 14mm open-end wrench on the tie rod locknut and loosen the nut with a 16mm ring wrench.

  8. On the driver's side, the universal joint is simply fitted. The splines of the universal joint are fitted into those of the gearbox. When the strut is removed there is a good chance the knuckle will lean outwards causing the driveshaft to come out of the gearbox causing a loss of gearbox oil. To avoid this I placed a concrete block and a wooden wedge. It will still be necessary to ensure that the rocket does not lean to one side once the strut is out.
    • On the driver's side, the universal joint is simply fitted. The splines of the universal joint are fitted into those of the gearbox.

    • When the strut is removed there is a good chance the knuckle will lean outwards causing the driveshaft to come out of the gearbox causing a loss of gearbox oil.

    • To avoid this I placed a concrete block and a wooden wedge. It will still be necessary to ensure that the rocket does not lean to one side once the strut is out.

    • Tighten the screw with a 16mm wrench and remove the nut with an 18mm socket.

  9. Much more stable and safe than "hand" compressors, you still have to be careful. Although the spring will be well engaged in the claws, there is always a risk that once under pressure it will "jump". Claw for the strut Guide rail with locking screw
    • Much more stable and safe than "hand" compressors, you still have to be careful. Although the spring will be well engaged in the claws, there is always a risk that once under pressure it will "jump".

    • Claw for the strut

    • Guide rail with locking screw

    • Claws for the spring

    • Spring retaining claws. They slide and lock into the rail to fit the spring.

    • Pressure management pedals

    • Pressure pedal

    • Pedal to release pressure

  10. Compress the spring until the cup is free. There are several options available to you: With an impact wrench and an 18mm socket you remove the nut.
    • Compress the spring until the cup is free.

    • There are several options available to you:

    • With an impact wrench and an 18mm socket you remove the nut.

    • With a 6mm Allen key you lock the shock absorber rod and remove the nut with an 18mm curved ring spanner.

    • With a 6mm BTR key you block the shock absorber rod and remove the nut with a through ratchet wrench and an 18mm socket.

    • Then you remove the cup and decompress the spring.

  11. Due to their horizontal storage, air bubbles may form in the gas circuit, so they must be purged before installation. Lower the shock absorber rod to the stop and let it rise several times to bleed it.
    • Due to their horizontal storage, air bubbles may form in the gas circuit, so they must be purged before installation.

    • Lower the shock absorber rod to the stop and let it rise several times to bleed it.

  12. Compare the new parts with the ones you just dismantled. Compare the new parts with the ones you just dismantled. Compare the new parts with the ones you just dismantled.
    • Compare the new parts with the ones you just dismantled.

  13. Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.
    • Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.

Finish Line

3 other people completed this guide.

laurent.immo13003

Member since: 03/03/2016

12,942 Reputation

155 Guides authored

One Comment

Good evening! This is the best tutorial I have seen, excellent work, congratulations to you Mr GRANDIN, really..

Roger RISAL - Reply

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