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Introduction

Changing the rear brake kit is necessary after a leak from one of the wheel cylinders or when there is excessive wear of the brake linings or drum.

  1. 
Chock and raise the vehicle and then remove the wheel.

Remove the central nut cover using a small chisel.

Use the small chisel to release the central nut. To do this, you must fold down the metal collar that prevents the nut from loosening.
    • Chock and raise the vehicle and then remove the wheel.

    • Remove the central nut cover using a small chisel.

    • Use the small chisel to release the central nut. To do this, you must fold down the metal collar that prevents the nut from loosening.

    • remove the central nut with a 32 socket and an extension.

  2. 
Pull the brake drum towards you.

Once the drum is removed, we discover the brake plate which supports the wheel cylinder and the brake linings.
    • Pull the brake drum towards you.

    • Once the drum is removed, we discover the brake plate which supports the wheel cylinder and the brake linings.

    • Wheel cylinder

    • toppings

  3. 
It is advisable to replace the brake linings when replacing the wheel cylinders. This is because a leaking wheel cylinder will spill brake fluid onto the linings and render them ineffective.

In addition, it is advisable to work symmetrically on both sides of the vehicle. Therefore, replace the same elements on the opposite side.

To remove the wheel cylinder, you need to remove the brake pipe fitting. 11mm pipe wrench required. This is done behind the brake plate.
    • It is advisable to replace the brake linings when replacing the wheel cylinders. This is because a leaking wheel cylinder will spill brake fluid onto the linings and render them ineffective.

    • In addition, it is advisable to work symmetrically on both sides of the vehicle. Therefore, replace the same elements on the opposite side.

    • To remove the wheel cylinder, you need to remove the brake pipe fitting. 11mm pipe wrench required. This is done behind the brake plate.

    • then you have to remove the 2 CHC screws. Allen key 5 required.

    • The wheel cylinder will be removed when the pads are removed. It is now free as it is no longer attached to the plate and it is no longer connected to the brake lines.

  4. 
Removing the gaskets begins with removing the lower spring. You must use a pair of multi-grip pliers to unsnap it.

Then you have to remove the retaining springs with their hexagonal cups. Still using a power strip, simply push the cups and make a quarter turn to unhook the rod. To be done on both springs.

Then you have to remove the retaining springs with their hexagonal cups. Still using a power strip, simply push the cups and make a quarter turn to unhook the rod. To be done on both springs.
    • Removing the gaskets begins with removing the lower spring. You must use a pair of multi-grip pliers to unsnap it.

    • Then you have to remove the retaining springs with their hexagonal cups. Still using a power strip, simply push the cups and make a quarter turn to unhook the rod. To be done on both springs.

  5. 
Unclip the linings. They remain attached by the handbrake cable.

To undo the handbrake cable, use the multigrip pliers to spread the spring about 2 cm.

Finally, you need to use leverage to remove the hose from the notch in which it is held.
    • Unclip the linings. They remain attached by the handbrake cable.

    • To undo the handbrake cable, use the multigrip pliers to spread the spring about 2 cm.

    • Finally, you need to use leverage to remove the hose from the notch in which it is held.

    • The wheel cylinder is now free to be removed.

  6. 
Clean the brake plate with brake cleaner.

Also clean the drum. Once cleaning is complete, lightly sand the inside of the brake strip with emery cloth (= fine-grain sandpaper).
    • Clean the brake plate with brake cleaner.

    • Also clean the drum. Once cleaning is complete, lightly sand the inside of the brake strip with emery cloth (= fine-grain sandpaper).

    • Check that the drum is not too worn. The minimum internal diameter is given by the manufacturer.

  7. 
Install the new wheel cylinder with its 2 fixing screws and connect it to the brake fluid pipe.

Install the new wheel cylinder with its 2 fixing screws and connect it to the brake fluid pipe.
    • Install the new wheel cylinder with its 2 fixing screws and connect it to the brake fluid pipe.

  8. 
The pads are supplied with a sachet of special brake grease.

Grease should be applied to the contact points (3 per lining). Be careful not to get any on the drum or on the lining surfaces.
    • The pads are supplied with a sachet of special brake grease.

    • Grease should be applied to the contact points (3 per lining). Be careful not to get any on the drum or on the lining surfaces.

    • Before installing the linings, the handbrake cable must be reconnected. Use the multi-grip pliers as for disassembly.

  9. 
Insert the 2 retaining springs from the rear of the brake plate.

Place the fittings on the plate and fix the springs as when disassembling.

Place the fittings on the plate and fix the springs as when disassembling.
    • Insert the 2 retaining springs from the rear of the brake plate.

    • Place the fittings on the plate and fix the springs as when disassembling.

  10. 
If necessary, remove the lower spring to facilitate installation and then replace it. Always use multi-grip pliers.

Pay attention to the positioning of the linings. Particularly at the level of contact with the wheel cylinders.
    • If necessary, remove the lower spring to facilitate installation and then replace it. Always use multi-grip pliers.

    • Pay attention to the positioning of the linings. Particularly at the level of contact with the wheel cylinders.

  11. 
Carefully push the cleaned and brushed drum onto the wheel spindle. Make sure to position it straight.

Use a mallet if it forces a little.

Replace the nut with its washer. And tighten it moderately, before the final tightening. Reassemble the wheel so that you can force it with the extension.
    • Carefully push the cleaned and brushed drum onto the wheel spindle. Make sure to position it straight.

    • Use a mallet if it forces a little.

    • Replace the nut with its washer. And tighten it moderately, before the final tightening. Reassemble the wheel so that you can force it with the extension.

    • Tighten with a 32 socket or pipe wrench and use an extension.

  12. 
Once tightened. Brake the nut by folding the collar into the notch of the spindle. Use a drift pin.

Replace the protective cover by tapping it with a mallet.
    • Once tightened. Brake the nut by folding the collar into the notch of the spindle. Use a drift pin.

    • Replace the protective cover by tapping it with a mallet.

  13. 
Perform a brake fluid bleed.
    • Perform a brake fluid bleed.

    • During the first 1000 km, avoid violent braking and opt for gentle braking so as not to damage the brake pads.

    • Replace the hubcap.

Conclusion

Do not neglect to bleed the brakes before road tests.

During the first 1000 km do not force the brakes and favor gentle braking.

4 other people completed this guide.

Angela ATANOR LEPEE

Member since: 03/03/2019

121 Reputation

1 Guide authored

9 Comments

ATTENTION

Very clear tutorial but I had the same problem as other comments: impossible to put a drum back. After searching a lot I understood that there is missing information: on some kits there is an automatic handbrake adjustment system which requires the pads to be too far apart. You can't put the drum in. You have to disarm this automatic adjustment by a few notches (it is 2 metal parts with "crocodile" notches): lift the small spring, shift the notches. Then it goes in. This adjustment will then find its position by using the handbrake.

alexis.vandv - Reply

Hello, I have the same problem as you lucie6.tolmer, if you find the solution before me I'm interested. I followed everything to the letter.

vincent_seret - Reply

Hello, I am making my 106 rear kit but I have a problem.

I can't put the drum back in anymore, the lining is blocking what should I do please?

THANKS

lucie6.tolmer - Reply

Angela ATANOR LEPEE thank you! very good tutorial, as good photos and clear explanations are better than youtube videos. I am now looking for how to do the purge using a similar pedagogy

ol.zgbm - Reply

Very good tutorial. Many thanks. I had a little trouble removing the two CHC screws from the cylinder because they were dirty. But by forcing the Allen key with a hammer I was able to unscrew them. The cleaned screws are like new. Thank you.

tonio scribe - Reply

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