Replacement of rear brake discs and pads.

Start by putting the car on jack stands to raise the rear axle: Securing the vehicle: removing and refitting the wheel

Remove the wheel by unscrewing the wheel studs (17 hex) with a cross wrench. (red arrows).

Access the brake disc (orange arrow) and the brake caliper (yellow arrow).

By going to the inside of the brake disc, you can access the column screws (red arrows) and the locknuts (orange arrows) which you unscrew with 15 and 13 flat wrenches.

Remove the column screws from their housings to completely free the stirrup (photo 2).

By lifting the caliper, you can access the brake pads (yellow arrows, photo 3). Remove the pads with a flat screwdriver.

Attach the caliper so as not to put stress on the brake hose

Once the pads are removed, you can access the caliper bracket (red arrows) and the brake disc (orange arrow).

Then remove the caliper support by unscrewing the two 16 STX screws located on the inside (yellow arrows, photo 2).

Once the bracket is removed, we start by removing the central nut cover using a flat screwdriver or a wood chisel.

We can then unscrew the central nut by 30 and remove the disc by pulling on it. (photo 2)

Photo 3: the disc has been removed.

At this point we check that the new brake disc (on the right in the photo) is delivered with a new nut and a new central cover. The old disc (on the left) and the new one are discs with integrated wheel bearings

Photo 2: Also compared are the brake pads, the column screws and the metal adapters that are used to wedge the pads into the caliper. On the left are the new parts and on the right are the used parts.

Photo 3: We can also compare the thickness of the pad linings. On the left the new pad and on the right the used pad.

We start by positioning the new disc and tightening the new nut by 30 (photo 1). We fit the nut cover with a hammer (photo 2).

Then position the caliper support and tighten the two 16 STX screws on the inside. (orange arrows, photo 3)

First, the metal adapters are positioned on the caliper cradle and then the pads are inserted fully.

The brake piston must then be pushed back (red arrow, photo 2) using a piston pusher, taking care not to tear the peripheral rubber (orange arrow, photo 2).

The brake caliper can then be closed (photo 3) and the new column screws tightened on the inside.

We then reassemble the wheel by screwing the rim studs back in, and we lower the car off the jack stands.

Pump the brake pedal several times until it stiffens.

It is advisable to avoid any sudden braking during the first 500 kilometers.