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Introduction

Details of the different steps for draining and replacing the oil filter on a Ford Focus II 1.6 TDCi DPF 110cv

  1. 
Lift the vehicle: Securing the vehicle

Locate the crankcase and the cork

Using a ratchet (socket no. 21) or socket wrench, loosen the plug and position a pan under the crankcase.
    • Lift the vehicle: Securing the vehicle

    • Locate the crankcase and the cork

    • Using a ratchet (socket no. 21) or socket wrench, loosen the plug and position a pan under the crankcase.

    • Let the oil drain into the pan

    • Realize the drain with a warm engine => the oil will drain more easily

  2. 
Compare the old and new crankcase plug

Clean the crankcase with a clean cloth
    • Compare the old and new crankcase plug

    • Clean the crankcase with a clean cloth

    • When the oil has completely drained, screw the new cap

  3. 
The oil filter is located under the sleeve between the turbo and the air box (see arrow)

Disconnect the air flow meter connection using a flat-blade screwdriver

Unscrew the air sleeve clamps between the air box and the turbo to improve accessibility then disconnect the sleeve
    • The oil filter is located under the sleeve between the turbo and the air box (see arrow)

    • Disconnect the air flow meter connection using a flat-blade screwdriver

    • Unscrew the air sleeve clamps between the air box and the turbo to improve accessibility then disconnect the sleeve

    • Protect the turbo with a clean cloth when the sleeve is disconnected

  4. 
Using a ratchet + socket no. 27, loosen the jar

Remove the oil filter (be careful not to spill the oil remaining in the jar)

Clean the filter housing
    • Using a ratchet + socket no. 27, loosen the jar

    • Remove the oil filter (be careful not to spill the oil remaining in the jar)

    • Clean the filter housing

  5. 
Remove the filter from the bell. Clean the jar and compare the old and new filters.

Replace the seal on the bell

Reposition the new filter
    • Remove the filter from the bell. Clean the jar and compare the old and new filters.

    • Replace the seal on the bell

    • Reposition the new filter

    • Screw the bell back on by hand then tighten with the socket and ratchet

  6. 
Reposition the sleeve and tighten the clamps (air box side and turbo side)

Reposition the air flow meter
    • Reposition the sleeve and tighten the clamps (air box side and turbo side)

    • Reposition the air flow meter

  7. 
Unscrew the oil cap

Pour 2.5 liters and carry out a first measurement.

Pour in another 1 litre and take a second reading.
    • Unscrew the oil cap

    • Pour 2.5 liters and carry out a first measurement.

    • Pour in another 1 litre and take a second reading.

    • Run the engine for about 1 minute and perform a final gauge (the level should not reach the max level but 2mm below)

Finish Line

10 other people completed this guide.

fernandes.bruno

Member since: 07/14/2016

682 Reputation

7 Guides authored

6 Comments

Since it is an aluminum crankcase, you have to be very careful not to overtighten. Following a bad experience in a garage, I had to have the crankcase changed. Since then, I have done it myself. The documentation says 25Nm. For my part, I tighten to contact + 1/4 turn. If there is no seepage, I drive a few km and re-inspect. If nothing, everything is OK, if there is seepage, another 1/4 turn. In general, no more problems after that.

fernandes.bruno - Reply

Hello

What force should be used to tighten the new cap?

MICHAEL HULAK - Reply

Indeed, correction made, it is of course the oil filter.

For my part, I advise to run the engine a few minutes before changing the oil to thin the oil. On the other hand, I do not recommend starting the engine without oil even for a few seconds.

fernandes.bruno - Reply

I don't understand:

Step 3 — Identify and Access the Oil Filter

The air filter is located on the sleeve between the turbo and the air box (see arrow)

Isn't it:

The OIL filter is located UNDER the sleeve between the turbo and the air box (see arrow)

Nicolas MERLIN - Reply

Also in step 3 it's the oil filter and not the air filter as Nicolas pointed out.

And question, several mechanics advise before screwing the crankcase screw to run the engine at no load for a few seconds in order to evacuate the oil more efficiently. What do you advise on your side?

Anthony GOUT -

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