How to change the oil and filter on Renault Clio 2 (RS)

Start by warming up the car engine (by driving for example). The warmer the engine, the better the oil will flow.

The Clio RS is quite low and it is therefore recommended to put it on blocks by having lifted it at jack before. You can also put it on jack stands but then prefer to put 4 of them. The goal is to put the car as straight as possible so that the oil flows well (and to check the level).

There is a crankcase guard under the car. In the photo you can see a sheet metal crankcase guard but it is made of original plastic. There may be access for the drain plug is provided on the crankcase guard, in this case you will not have to disassemble it.

Simply remove the 4 10mm screws (two in front, two behind) to remove the crankcase guard.

Start by removing the oil filler cap on top of the engine.

Under the car, place the drain pan below the drain plug and unscrew it using the appropriate wrench. Finish unscrewing by hand.

To remove the oil filter, it is easier to remove the injector shield shim first. Start by locating this shim at the front of the engine.

The injector guard is held in place by two 10mm nuts (one on the left and one in the middle). The best tool To remove them, you only need a small ratchet with a small extension and a 10 mm socket.

Unscrew the two nuts by passing the ratchet through the holes provided for unscrewing. No need to remove the nuts from their housings. Remove the injector protector when it is completely loosened and the nuts will come with it.

You now have full access to the oil filter. Use a special filter strap wrench to unscrew and remove it (be careful, oil will leak when removing it).

Once the old filter is removed, start by wiping up any oil that has leaked with it. a rag. Also clean the part where the filter rests properly.

Take new oil and oil the rubber gasket of the new oil filter well (you can oil by running your finger around it).

Screw the new oil filter onto its housing. Tighten the filter as much as you can (as hard as possible) but only by hand! In fact, if you tighten with a wrench, the oil filter may be impossible to remove at the next oil change.

Check the correspondence between the old and the new oil filter (the diameter of the seal and the dimensions of the thread), the volume of the filter has no impact.

Place a new gasket on the drain plug (gasket with rubber lip).

Start by screwing the drain plug on by hand the oil pan.

Finish tightening with a wrench but be careful not to tighten too hard. The oil pan is made of aluminum and can crack if tightened too hard. So tighten moderately.

For added security, you can use a torque wrench and a square tip for final tightening. Tightening torque: 2.5 to 3.0 DaNm.

Start to slowly add oil. You will need to fill until the oil gauge is at the maximum. You can use a funnel to help you pour the oil more easily.

The gauge is located near the oil filter, check it regularly during filling. You must make sure to reach the maximum mark without exceeding it (or very little). You can go there serenely, the 5L can of oil will be almost empty when it is good.

Put the injector protection shim back in place. To do this, simply do the reverse of the disassembly. Just be careful not to pinch any wires when putting the shim back in place.

Replace the crankcase guard under the engine by screwing it back in at the 4 corners.

Put the car back on its wheels, making sure it is level.

Close the oil filler cap securely and turn on the ignition. The oil level should be good on the dashboard.

Start the engine. The oil light on the dashboard should go out after a few seconds.

Turn off the ignition and now top up the oil level by checking the dipstick. The correct oil level is 5 millimeters below the maximum. It will be a little low on oil most of the time (due to the filter filling). Make sure to get back to 5 millimeters below the maximum with the new oil remaining in the can.