Introduction
The vehicle is a Clio II 1.4 i 16V 98cv
Video Overview
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Unscrew all the screws from the plate using a 10 socket and a ratchet.
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Remove the screws by hand
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Take out the plate
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Place a container under the vehicle to collect the coolant, making sure that the engine is cold.
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The liquid may splash on you
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Using pliers, move the lower radiator hose clamp upwards.
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Unhook the hose by pulling upwards
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Coolant flows into the pan
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Open the expansion tank cap to empty the cooling circuit as much as possible.
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Remove the mudguard screws with a T20 screwdriver
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Remove all staples by pulling them gently.
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Remove the engine cover by pulling it upwards
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Unhook the elastic strap from the air filter resonator
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Unhook the hose on the side of the air filter resonator
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Remove the resonator
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To remove the resonator support remove the two screws starting with the top one
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Using a flat screwdriver, carefully pierce the center of the caps.
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Leverage them with the screwdriver to remove them
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the camshaft ends are located just behind the two plugs, drill carefully
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Place a 16 socket on the silentbloc nut
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Unlock and remove the nut with the ratchet and extension
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The length of the thread prevents the socket from reaching the nut if it is already on the extension
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Remove the screw holding the mass under the engine mount location
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Extract the mass, be careful it is heavy to handle
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Place the 13 key on the accessory belt tensioner roller screw
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Rotate the tensioner pulley with the wrench clockwise to loosen the accessory belt
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Hold the wrench in position to release the belt from the crankshaft pulley
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Depending on the version of the vehicle (air conditioning, power steering), the route may be different, so draw a diagram to help you with the installation.
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Carefully release the tensioner, remove the key
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Remove the belt from the top
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Clearly identify (sketch possible) the position of the belt for reassembly
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To unhook the harness sheath, remove the screw on the side of the timing case
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Unhook the cable
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The sheath goes around the distribution housing
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Remove the locking tab from the throttle body socket
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Disconnect the throttle body plug
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Unhook the pin from the sheath support
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Unhook the sheath by pulling on it moderately then place it to the side
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Remove the upper aluminum casing and the lower plastic casing
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For the aluminum housing remove the 3 screws and the two nuts
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For the aluminum housing remove the 3 screws and two nuts with a 16 wrench
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Move the vacuum intake pipe aside
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Remove the two screws from the top of the plastic casing with a 10 wrench (here the first one at the top right)
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Remove the two screws from the top of the plastic casing with a 10 wrench (here the second screw at the top left)
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Unhook the fuel hose from the plastic housing
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Unscrew and remove the screw from the top of the cradle rod with the 13 key.
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Loosen the connecting rod nut with the 18 mm wrench.
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Rotate the cradle link to access the screws on the bottom of the plastic housing
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Play with the jack to facilitate the removal of the screws and extract the aluminum casing
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Remove the plastic casing, it is better to note the location of each screw!
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Remove the lower plastic casing from the top, exposing access to the air conditioning pipes and the fuel hose.
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First, rotate the engine clockwise so that the camshaft slots are almost horizontal.
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The slot should be offset downwards
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Bring the engine close to top dead center position
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Remove the crankshaft pin plug in order to insert the pin with a Torx E14 socket.
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Then turn the engine clockwise until the crankshaft stops on the pin without forcing!
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The slots in each camshaft must be horizontal.
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Place the camshaft holding tool in each of the two slots which must be horizontal
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The engine is now stalled
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Loosen the tensioner roller nut with a 13 wrench.
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Place a 6mm Allen key into the tensioner lever and rotate the lever to the left
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Remove the belt
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Loosen the screw of the idler roller with a Torx T 55 bit
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Recover the spacer located behind the idler roller for reassembly of the new roller.
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Remove the screw and let the remaining coolant drain into a pan
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Remove the water pump from its location by pulling it outwards
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Using a cutter blade (or other), scrape off any residue from the old seal still present on the water pump installation surface.
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Do not hesitate to use a flat screwdriver to pry between the water pump and its location.
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Compare the dimensions between the new parts and the old parts (the size of the timing belt as well as the number of teeth, the water pump)
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Place the new screw on the the new water pump
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Prepare the idler roller with the spacer screw
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Compare the old idler roller with the new one
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Compare the new and old tensioner pulley
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Locate the position of the seal on the water pump
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The new crankshaft pulley screw
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Place the water pump gasket on the guides
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Insert the water pump from the bottom of the engine for better access
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Install the water pump in its housing
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Present the belt with the inscriptions in the reading direction
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Placer the belt under the crankshaft pinion
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Guide the belt between the top of the water pump sprocket and the idler pulley
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Pass the belt over the idler pulley to bring it to the intake camshaft pulley and then to the exhaust camshaft pulley
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To facilitate the completion of the installation of the timing belt, use a rilsan collar to hold the indicator on the tension index of the tensioner roller.
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Replace the tensioner roller in its location
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In some cases the tensioner roller is delivered already clamped, it is enough to place it without the rilsan collar
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Bring the nut closer to the tensioner roller without blocking it
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Raise the tensioner lever with your finger or an Allen key, so that the tensioner lever position is horizontal
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Using needle-nose pliers, remove the Rislan collar by pulling on it
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Using the Allen key, turn the tensioner roller lever to bring the tension indicator onto the tensioner index.
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Hold the position and lock the tensioner roller nut with the 13 key.
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Reinstall the damper pulley on the crankshaft sprocket.
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Replace the screw on the damper pulley and tighten it
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Turn the crankshaft clockwise (4 engine revolutions or 8 crankshaft revolutions) so that all the timing belt notches are in place
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Recheck the position of the tensioner index.
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Check the correct position of the tensioner index, otherwise start again from step 67 of this tutorial
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Replace the plastic lower cover from the bottom of the engine
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Place the aluminum upper casing
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Screw the casings back on
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Clean the housing of the 2 camshafts
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Replace the 2 plugs at the end of each camshaft, tap gently with a hammer to insert the 2 plugs into their respective housings
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Apply oil to the 2 plugs before refitting
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Reinstall the accessory belt according to the diagram in step 19
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Replace the sheath support pin
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Reposition the throttle body socket locking tab
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Reconnect the pressure sensor
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Replace the cable in its location
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Lock the sheath screw on the aluminum housing
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Replace the silentbloc engine mount in its location
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Tighten the 4 screws
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Reinstall the engine mount by adjusting the height with the jack and tighten everything then remove the jack
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Unscrew and remove the bleeder screw located below the resonator bracket
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Open the coolant jar and fill it
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Keep the jar full to expel air until the liquid comes out of the bleeder.
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Tighten the bleeder plug screw with a flathead screwdriver
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Re-sleeve the box air intake pipe
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Clip the air box by pressing on it
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Replace the pipe in its location and close the strap
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Start the engine
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Monitor the coolant level, top up if necessary
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Close the jar cap
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Let the engine run until the cooling fan comes on several times
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Stop the engine, after the engine has cooled completely (4 hours), top up the coolant level if necessary.
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Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
6 other people completed this guide.
11 Comments
Well done for this tutorial, but now I think I'm going to have the belt changed by a professional!!!
Thanks for the tutorial which is very clear!
Hello, can you make a video to dismantle a cylinder head and change the cylinder head gasket Clio 2 year 1999 petrol thank you
If I can contribute to this tutorial, here are some tightening torques: idler roller 45 to 50Nm, tensioner roller 27Nm, water pump 10Nm for M6 screws and 22Nm for M8 screws, damper pulley 40Nm + 145° (+/-15°), crankshaft pin screw 20Nm.
Step 55: You should tighten the screw much harder (nut/locknut) and apply red threadlock. This screw is not designed to be removed and we definitely don't want it to come loose.
Step 67: The tensioner roller slider should be brought to the right mark, not the middle one.
Thanks for the tutorial but there is an error it is a crank pinion which is not keyed so the timing of the crank and the camshaft is done with the damper pulley because if we remove it your camshaft will not turn