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  1. 
Photo 1: we start by putting the car on a jack stand and removing the front wheel.

Photo 2: with a 25 torx key we remove the ABS cable support on the shock absorber (orange circle).

Photo 3: the shock absorber leg is released by unscrewing the 18 screws and holding the nuts (yellow arrows).
    • Photo 1: we start by putting the car on a jack stand and removing the front wheel.

    • Photo 2: with a 25 torx key we remove the ABS cable support on the shock absorber (orange circle).

    • Photo 3: the shock absorber leg is released by unscrewing the 18 screws and holding the nuts (yellow arrows).

  2. 
Photo 1: with a 21 offset wrench, unscrew the upper fixing nut while blocking the shock absorber rod with a 6 Allen key.

Photo 2: The shock absorber disassembled. We will recover the upper cup (red arrow), the spring (orange arrow), the dust sleeve (blue arrow) and the rubber base (green arrow).

Photo 3: The shock absorber leg is clamped in a vice and 3 compressors are placed on the shock absorber spring. The compressors are tightened in turn and very gradually. The spring should no longer touch the upper cup.
    • Photo 1: with a 21 offset wrench, unscrew the upper fixing nut while blocking the shock absorber rod with a 6 Allen key.

    • Photo 2: The shock absorber disassembled. We will recover the upper cup (red arrow), the spring (orange arrow), the dust sleeve (blue arrow) and the rubber base (green arrow).

    • Photo 3: The shock absorber leg is clamped in a vice and 3 compressors are placed on the shock absorber spring. The compressors are tightened in turn and very gradually. The spring should no longer touch the upper cup.

  3. 
Photo 1: Once the spring is compressed, unscrew the 24 nut (red arrow) with a counter-angled wrench while holding the axle (orange arrow) with the 6 Allen key. Then remove the rubber stop and the bearing.

Photo 2: Once the upper cup is removed, the dust sleeve is recovered by sliding it upwards.

Photo 3: The lower rubber base is then recovered by pulling it upwards (green arrows). Note the notch for positioning the base in the lower cup (pink arrow).
    • Photo 1: Once the spring is compressed, unscrew the 24 nut (red arrow) with a counter-angled wrench while holding the axle (orange arrow) with the 6 Allen key. Then remove the rubber stop and the bearing.

    • Photo 2: Once the upper cup is removed, the dust sleeve is recovered by sliding it upwards.

    • Photo 3: The lower rubber base is then recovered by pulling it upwards (green arrows). Note the notch for positioning the base in the lower cup (pink arrow).

  4. 
Photo 1: on the left the old shock absorber, on the right the new one.

Photo 2: On the left the new parts, on the right the old ones. From top to bottom: the bearings, the rubber stops and the fixings to the body with the 21 nuts. The stop repair kit contains all these parts.
    • Photo 1: on the left the old shock absorber, on the right the new one.

    • Photo 2: On the left the new parts, on the right the old ones. From top to bottom: the bearings, the rubber stops and the fixings to the body with the 21 nuts. The stop repair kit contains all these parts.

  5. 
Photo 1: the shock absorber reassembled. We proceeded in the reverse order to that of step 3: block the leg in the vice, place the lower base then the dust sleeve, position the compressed spring then the upper cup, the bearing and the rubber stop. Screw the 24 nut and slowly decompress the spring.

Photo 2: Fix the upper part of the assembly to the body, using the new fixing and the new 24 nut. Fix the shock absorber leg by screwing in the 18 bolts (see photo 3 of step 1) then replace the ABS cable (see photo 2 of step 1).
    • Photo 1: the shock absorber reassembled. We proceeded in the reverse order to that of step 3: block the leg in the vice, place the lower base then the dust sleeve, position the compressed spring then the upper cup, the bearing and the rubber stop. Screw the 24 nut and slowly decompress the spring.

    • Photo 2: Fix the upper part of the assembly to the body, using the new fixing and the new 24 nut. Fix the shock absorber leg by screwing in the 18 bolts (see photo 3 of step 1) then replace the ABS cable (see photo 2 of step 1).

    • After changing the shock absorbers, it is necessary to redo the geometry of the car.

Finish Line

8 other people completed this guide.

o jacamon

Member since: 05/21/2017

1,562 Reputation

14 Guides authored

9 Comments

Indeed, the upper cup does not touch the body. The RENAULT garage that carried out the replacement told me that this was normal.

Surprising for me, a 78-year-old former mechanic. But no problem EXCEPT that: 3rd MOT and it still says: "poor attachment of shock absorbers to chassis or axle". I tried to explain it to the inspector, but he told me he had to record it!!!!!!!!! No response from the National Inspection Center. The problem with technical inspections is that they copy the faults from other MOTs, especially for vehicles

more than 10/15 years. My Clio is 24 years old. Too bad RENAULT does not give us a certificate of conformity or inform the CT centers.

Kind regards to all

masson - Reply

Good morning,

I did the assembly with complete shock absorber kit/complete repair kit and spring (23 year old car so it was completely dead), and my upper cups do not touch the car unlike the original ones, and I have a noise during the tests (audible when I turn the steering wheel and during deceleration phases without braking).

So I have a play of almost 1cm on the 2 at the front and I am at the tightening stop. The shock absorbers and repair kit are compatible and of the same brand in order to avoid possible problems.

Do you have any solutions, because for me it is not normal (and on photo/video tutorials we see that the rubber comes to a stop on top)? The connecting rods/ball joints/silent blocks have already been redone, so the noise would not come from these parts.

Thanks in advance!

Laetitia H. - Reply

Same for me, the upper cups are too high. Refused at the MOT. However there is no choice to mount them differently.

benoit.plee - Reply

Hello, is there a specific tightening torque for the different nuts, thank you

coronel.jeanmarie - Reply

Good morning,

I just made the change but the upper part of the assembly which is connected to the body does not touch (cup out of the housing) or did I make a mistake? (and I am at the tightening stop). the cup is 1cm above the body so no support) as if the suspension rod was too big.

micka59253 - Reply

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