Parts
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To be able to remove your wheel:
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- Use une croix or look in your trunk by removing the carpet, you will find a key there intended to loosen your 4 nuts, without removing them completely.
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- Use un cric to raise the front of your vehicle.
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Remember to secure your vehicle by using des chandelles or others. -
You can completely remove your nuts and then remove the wheel.
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Now you can see the inner steering knuckle.
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The outer tie rod end is located between the steering rack and the inner tie rod end.
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Unscrew the nut of the outer ball joint fixed at the wheel hub using a 16 mm open-end wrench.
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Use a hammer to tap the thread of the ball joint to completely remove it from its support.
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Now we're going to unscrew the nut that holds the rest of the ball joint.
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Use a 21 mm flat wrench to unscrew the nut, then turn the steering ball joint to unscrew it from the thread at the nut.
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The outer steering knuckle is now completely disassembled.
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We will compare the old and new ball joint (dimensions etc.)
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Screw the steering ball joint by hand onto the screw thread then tighten the nut firmly using your 21 mm flat wrench.
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Place the ball joint in its housing, then screw the nut of the outer ball joint at the wheel hub using a 15 mm flat spanner and a screwdriver with a TORX 30 bit so that the nut does not turn freely.
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The task is now complete, you can safely put your wheel back on.
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It is advisable to change the steering ball joint on each side.
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Go to your garage to have your alignment done
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One Comment
Hello, I do not see a serious preventive action which consists before removing anything, I measure from one fixed point to another fixed point ((without having loosened anything beforehand)) I measure the space between the middle, top which protrudes from the ball joint screw itself and at the other fixed point a small visible chisel blow, which will allow to raise the ball joint exactly to its previous adjustment point supposedly correct in parallelism, because if it is a ball joint having very strong wear with too much travel, it is necessary at all costs to have the parallelism of the geometry of the front axle adjusted, under penalty of prematurely wearing out the tires this is not specified here in this tutorial either, to conclude = if you change a ball joint with minor play by performing the sockets and distances as explained above, you will have no costs for adjusting the train, except if the ball joint is in very poor condition and has very significant play, very important not to forget to say everything
michel lemaire - Resolved on Release Reply
