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Introduction

The symptoms of a faulty connecting rod are quite simple:

- You can no longer shift into gear or engage reverse.

- The gear lever shows significant play, even with a gear engaged.

This often happens after abrupt gear changes during sporty driving.

  1. Start by raising the front of the vehicle with a jack until the front wheels are off the ground. Place jack stands under the vehicle to secure it.
    • Start by raising the front of the vehicle with a jack until the front wheels are off the ground.

    • Place jack stands under the vehicle to secure it.

  2. The three connecting rods are located between the gearbox and the passenger compartment of the car, under the engine. You will easily find them by following the path of the exhaust manifold You have a total of three links here on the gear lever side.
    • The three connecting rods are located between the gearbox and the passenger compartment of the car, under the engine. You will easily find them by following the path of the exhaust manifold

    • You have a total of three links here on the gear lever side.

    • Here, gearbox side

  3. For large tie rod heads use a 17 flat wrench to provide leverage. Place the flat wrench between the head and its support Lever to unhook the head of the connecting rod Lever to unhook the head of the connecting rod
    • For large tie rod heads use a 17 flat wrench to provide leverage. Place the flat wrench between the head and its support

    • Lever to unhook the head of the connecting rod

  4. Place the 13 flat key for the small head of the second connecting rod Lever and unhook the connecting rod Lever and unhook the connecting rod
    • Place the 13 flat key for the small head of the second connecting rod

    • Lever and unhook the connecting rod

  5. Place the 17 flat wrench between the head of the connecting rod and its support Lever to remove the connecting rod Lever to remove the connecting rod
    • Place the 17 flat wrench between the head of the connecting rod and its support

    • Lever to remove the connecting rod

  6. The third and final connecting rod is the longest and its location higher (the first two are actually the same model of connecting rod) Place the 13 mm flat wrench between the head and its support Lever to remove the first head of the connecting rod
    • The third and final connecting rod is the longest and its location higher (the first two are actually the same model of connecting rod)

    • Place the 13 mm flat wrench between the head and its support

    • Lever to remove the first head of the connecting rod

  7. Place the 17 flat key for the large head of the last connecting rod Lever to remove the last connecting rod Lever to remove the last connecting rod
    • Place the 17 flat key for the large head of the last connecting rod

    • Lever to remove the last connecting rod

  8. Once all three rods are removed you now need to compare the new rods to ensure you are replacing the correct parts. Among the three connecting rods removed, one had already been "repaired" For the new long connecting rod is not similar because it does not have a large head but the hole diameter and its length are similar to the old one
    • Once all three rods are removed you now need to compare the new rods to ensure you are replacing the correct parts.

    • Among the three connecting rods removed, one had already been "repaired"

    • For the new long connecting rod is not similar because it does not have a large head but the hole diameter and its length are similar to the old one

    • All the connecting rods are the same, now I can put the new ones back on!

  9. I start by replacing the third connecting rod because it is the most difficult to access and I would have difficulty accessing it once the other two are replaced. It is advisable to clean/unseize the location of the connecting rods with a penetrating oil. You should then apply a dab of grease to it to help its longevity.
    • I start by replacing the third connecting rod because it is the most difficult to access and I would have difficulty accessing it once the other two are replaced.

    • It is advisable to clean/unseize the location of the connecting rods with a penetrating oil. You should then apply a dab of grease to it to help its longevity.

    • To refit the connecting rod, nothing could be simpler: fit the connecting rod head onto its support. Do not hesitate to force it

  10. Replace the second connecting rod in the same way. The large head of the connecting rod is placed on the gear lever side
    • Replace the second connecting rod in the same way.

    • The large head of the connecting rod is placed on the gear lever side

    • Do not make a mistake about the location on the gearbox side, a connecting rod support is deliberately free for adjustment.

    • Photo 2: gearbox side

  11. Replace the first connecting rod in the same way. The first connecting rod is placed just below the second
    • Replace the first connecting rod in the same way.

    • The first connecting rod is placed just below the second

    • Connecting rod n°2

    • Photo 2: Gearbox side

  12. You have just changed the gearbox linkage, here is an overview of the three rods fitted. Test the gears including reverse before setting off.
    • You have just changed the gearbox linkage, here is an overview of the three rods fitted.

    • Test the gears including reverse before setting off.

Finish Line

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dylan.leviavant

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