Introduction
You want to change your front brake pads and discs on Peugeot 207+ 1.4 HDi FAP 68 cv
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To be able to remove your wheel:
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Remove your hubcap if you have one , by simply pulling on it gently to unclip it.
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- Use a cross or look in your trunk by removing the carpet, you will find a key there intended to loosen your 4 nuts, without removing them completely.
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- Use a jack to raise the front of your vehicle.
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Remember to secure your vehicle using jack stands or other supports.
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- Now you can remove your 4 nuts which hold the wheel then remove it by pulling on it.
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You can then open your engine hood and unscrew by removing the brake fluid filler cap.
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To be able to push back the piston , use a large flat screwdriver . Insert your screwdriver at the level of the red circle just between the plate and the piston then push hard by leveraging it because it is very hard. don't hesitate.
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Before pushing the piston back, it is advisable to open the brake fluid reservoir to prevent it from becoming pressurized.
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To change your pads you will need to unscrew your caliper and tilt it upwards to access them.
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You will need a ratchet with a 17 socket to unscrew the caliper.
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On the top part: The nut must be unscrewed but not to the maximum because you don't have to remove it , this must always be screwed on at least a minimum.
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On the bottom part: The nut must be completely unscrewed and removed so that you can then lever up.
I confirm it is 13
It's 13 and not 17.
Hello, is it really 17? Because on my car it's 13.
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To remove your brake pads , use a flat screwdriver then place it behind each pad and then to leverage and the simply remove by hand.
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In blue: New pads.
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In orange: Used pads.
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You will need to completely remove the 2 screws that hold your stirrup , for this use your ratchet and its 17 socket.
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You can now remove your caliper by pulling it towards you , put it somewhere or it will not be held by the hoses.
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Now you have the second part of the stirrup , for this use a screwdriver with a 55 HW bit then unscrew the 2 large screws located behind the caliper.
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Don't hesitate to force them because they are very tight, if you can't do it, use penetrating oil to help you.
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You can now lift the second part of the stirrup to the deposit completely.
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You now have access to your brake disc.
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You can now remove the brake disc using a large Phillips screwdriver, you will need to completely remove the 2 screws that hold it in place.
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You can then pull the brake disc towards you to then change it.
If the disc is stuck you can use a hammer or sledgehammer and tap on both sides to loosen it.
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You can now compare the dimensions of the 2 disks.
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In green: New brake disc.
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In blue: Used brake disc.
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Put the new discs in place respecting its meaning , then replace the 2 screws using a large cross-head screwdriver.
Hello, what are the dimensions of the original front discs? Thank you.
Before putting it back, I recommend scraping (if there is corrosion) the disc support (Not the disc!!!) and the brake caliper.
This helps prevent seizure (which will ultimately cause your vehicle to brake on its own...)
With a wire bristle brush!
Believe me it is very useful...
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You can now reinstall the second part of the brake caliper respecting its meaning.
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Use a screwdriver with a 55 HW bit then screw in the 2 large screws located behind the caliper.
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Don't hesitate to force them so that they are fully screwed in.
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You can now put the caliper back in place respecting its meaning.
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You will need to fully tighten the 2 screws which hold your stirrup , for this use your ratchet and its 17 socket.
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To put on your new brake pads , check the meaning then insert them into the notch on the top as well as on the bottom then press firmly on them to engage them.
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The noise-canceling shims are generally supplied with the new pads and must be replaced or at least cleaned each time the pads are replaced.
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To be able to put the stay back you will have to push the piston back as far as possible , to do this use multi-grip pliers then press very firmly on it until it is completely inserted.
Using a pair of pliers at an angle like in the photo may damage the piston and its seal!
Prefer to use a basic, low-cost clamp (sliding style) with which it is possible to place the “screw” part directly at the bottom of the piston.
By placing the pliers correctly and going gradually you will have no problems. The best is to use a piston pusher.
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To put your caliper back , do the tilt down gently, taking care that the plate does not move and that they remain in place.
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Insert the screw that you have withdrawn on the bottom of the clamp then screw it back in tightly with your ratchet and its 17 socket.
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Then tighten the top screw thanks to your ratchet and its 17 socket.
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You can now put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir.
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Set up and r unscrew the 4 nuts of your wheel.
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Replace your hubcap by clipping it on, pressing hard on it.
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The job is now done , you will need to go to your vehicle and press your brake pedal about ten times before taking the wheel so that the piston is put back in place.
The tutorial is not bad, but we do not talk about the caliper and its proper functioning. It is good to provide a kit of seals-dust covers-bellows and to check the lubrication of the piston and the guides of the caliper support.
Mounting the pads with copper grease is also a significant advantage.
It's a floating caliper, don't forget...
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6 Comments
Very good explanations!!!
Well done, good tutorial.
I will just add three things and more of the various points mentioned above:
- dust areas polluted by wafer dust
- pay attention to the liquid level in the jar when pushing the pistons back
- change the brake fluid if it is more than 2 years old, because this product is water-hungry (humidity) and loses its effectiveness.
Using pliers to push the piston back (step 13) can damage it. I recommend leaving an old pad in place and using it as a lever to push the piston back. Do this before reassembling the caliper.
If necessary, degrease new discs if they are stored “greasy”.
Putting thread lock on the caliper fixing screws would indeed be desirable knowing that certain screws supplied with the new pads may already be coated with thread lock.
Take advantage of this disassembly to check the condition of the brake hoses and possibly replace them if they are cracked or worn.
Mark
Well done for the tutorial and the previous comment, tomorrow I'll start…………….
Sincerely
Alain Martelli
Thanks for the explanation. I think some thread lock on the caliper screws would be a plus.
Greetings
Al1