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Introduction

Changing the pulley can take time when loosening the pulley, it is mounted with thread lock, it is easier to be 2 people to succeed in this step only.

  1. 
Lifting and securing (jack stand) the car

Removing the wheel
    • Lifting and securing (jack stand) the car

    • Removing the wheel

  2. 
Remove the plastic covers using a Torx screwdriver. There are several screws, including 5 on the bottom of the plastic protections, which should not be forgotten.

Be careful to dislodge the hoses from their location without disconnecting them.

The plastic covers are removed gently without forcing.
    • Remove the plastic covers using a Torx screwdriver. There are several screws, including 5 on the bottom of the plastic protections, which should not be forgotten.

    • Be careful to dislodge the hoses from their location without disconnecting them.

    • The plastic covers are removed gently without forcing.

  3. 
This is the crankshaft pulley (the larger pulley on the left)
    • This is the crankshaft pulley (the larger pulley on the left)

  4. 
Start by removing the turbo hose retaining nut.

Loosen the collar

Disconnect the turbo hose at the clamp
    • Start by removing the turbo hose retaining nut.

    • Loosen the collar

    • Disconnect the turbo hose at the clamp

    • It is not necessary to remove the entire hose, just separate it at the collar to be able to move it under the oil pan, this allows more space for the rest

  5. 
Remove the 2 retaining bolts (marked in orange) from the flywheel housing (arrowed in green)

Remove the flywheel housing

Remove the flywheel housing
    • Remove the 2 retaining bolts (marked in orange) from the flywheel housing (arrowed in green)

    • Remove the flywheel housing

  6. 
Proceed to lock the flywheel (using a pin or a flywheel block)

Place the flywheel lock in front of the upper bolt (where the turbo hose was held) then replace the original bolt and tighten it until the flywheel is locked

If you do not use the special "flywheel lock" tool, but a simple pin placed in the flywheel, be careful not to break it by forcing when removing the pulley. The flywheel locking tool is more effective and avoids this type of problem.
    • Proceed to lock the flywheel (using a pin or a flywheel block)

    • Place the flywheel lock in front of the upper bolt (where the turbo hose was held) then replace the original bolt and tighten it until the flywheel is locked

    • If you do not use the special "flywheel lock" tool, but a simple pin placed in the flywheel, be careful not to break it by forcing when removing the pulley. The flywheel locking tool is more effective and avoids this type of problem.

  7. 
Clearly identify and note the belt diagram so as not to be penalized during reassembly (passage and overlap of the pulleys) and note the direction of rotation of the belt if reusing.

Loosen the tensioner roller using a 15 wrench by acting on the bolt in the center of the roller (orange circle)

While loosening the roller, insert a pin (or small torx key here) into the hole furthest away on the tensioner roller (blue arrow) until the pin (or key) is fully inserted and blocks the roller
    • Clearly identify and note the belt diagram so as not to be penalized during reassembly (passage and overlap of the pulleys) and note the direction of rotation of the belt if reusing.

    • Loosen the tensioner roller using a 15 wrench by acting on the bolt in the center of the roller (orange circle)

    • While loosening the roller, insert a pin (or small torx key here) into the hole furthest away on the tensioner roller (blue arrow) until the pin (or key) is fully inserted and blocks the roller

    • Once the tensioner roller is blocked, you need to loosen the idler roller. To do this, take a large Allen key and unscrew it until the belt is loose.

  8. 
This step is particularly difficult if you are not equipped with a minimum (articulated handle and extension or powerful pneumatic gun, etc.), the bolt being very resistant and mounted with thread lock.

Get a 22mm socket and one or more extensions, here I placed the extension on another candle to have support
    • This step is particularly difficult if you are not equipped with a minimum (articulated handle and extension or powerful pneumatic gun, etc.), the bolt being very resistant and mounted with thread lock.

    • Get a 22mm socket and one or more extensions, here I placed the extension on another candle to have support

    • Use penetrating oil and leave to act if necessary.

    • Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley

  9. 
Compare the old and new pulley

Compare the old bolt and spacer with the new ones (if purchasing new ones) or clean and add new threadlocker to the bolt.

Clean the thread lock residue in the second crankshaft pulley still in place (timing belt side)
    • Compare the old and new pulley

    • Compare the old bolt and spacer with the new ones (if purchasing new ones) or clean and add new threadlocker to the bolt.

    • Clean the thread lock residue in the second crankshaft pulley still in place (timing belt side)

    • Fit the new pulley and tighten it to the torque specified in your vehicle's RTA

  10. 
Check carefully that the belt is correctly positioned in the pulley grooves and that it has the correct routing.

Proceed to tension the idler roller using an Allen key and a square key (the size of a door square) until the tensioner roller pin unlocks by itself.
    • Check carefully that the belt is correctly positioned in the pulley grooves and that it has the correct routing.

    • Proceed to tension the idler roller using an Allen key and a square key (the size of a door square) until the tensioner roller pin unlocks by itself.

    • It is best to be 2 for this operation, one person tightens the idler roller, and the other person monitors the unlocking of the pin in the tensioner roller

    • At this stage you can unlock the flywheel (especially do not forget to turn on the engine before this stage - risk of breakage)

    • Turn the crankshaft a few times to position the belt correctly and check the tension using the pin (it should fit into the tensioner roller and come out without difficulty).

    • Refer to vehicle technical manual if tensioning method is different

  11. 
The pulley having been changed, it is now necessary to reassemble the protections in the reverse order of disassembly (flywheel protection, turbo hose, wheel guards, etc.)
    • The pulley having been changed, it is now necessary to reassemble the protections in the reverse order of disassembly (flywheel protection, turbo hose, wheel guards, etc.)

    • Reassembling the wheel

Conclusion

This is a fairly difficult operation to carry out alone, but possible; loosening the pulley is very difficult without a lever arm or a powerful pneumatic gun.

2 other people completed this guide.

Julien GAUDEMER

Member since: 2/19/19

625 Reputation

9 Guides authored

2 Comments

great tutorial with some differences for the placement of the tool for my 2.1l td, but otherwise very well explained just pay attention to the inside and outside diameter as well as the rear shape of the damper pulley I can only say a big thank you to you for this development of this subject well advised and well documented by your photos.

ninth of 42

mrvn512 - Resolved on Release Reply

This guide helped me a lot; it allowed me to locate the tools (which I bought) to block the flywheel and to prepare myself well to loosen the pulley (large lever arm and support on a wooden stool at the same height as the axis of the screw). SUPER.

Marc ANDREOTTI - Resolved on Release Reply

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