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  1. 
Get on a flat surface and prepare a jack, a candle and a cross.

Start by unscrewing the wheel nuts without removing them. The goal here is only to loosen them.

Raise the vehicle using the jack using the lifting points (they are specific). Place the jack stand at the desired height.
    • Get on a flat surface and prepare a jack, a candle and a cross.

    • Start by unscrewing the wheel nuts without removing them. The goal here is only to loosen them.

    • Raise the vehicle using the jack using the lifting points (they are specific). Place the jack stand at the desired height.

    • For safety, I left the jack at the level of the candle and put the wheel under the vehicle.

  2. 
Here is the mudguard. It is held by T20 torx screws (in red) and plastic clips (in green)

Here is a plastic clip. Use a flat screwdriver and flat nose pliers to remove them

Here is a T20 torx screw
    • Here is the mudguard. It is held by T20 torx screws (in red) and plastic clips (in green)

    • Here is a plastic clip. Use a flat screwdriver and flat nose pliers to remove them

    • Here is a T20 torx screw

  3. 
The operation will be done via the hood. The tensioner roller is circled in green

Using the eye of a 13 key and a 4 pin, you will loosen the automatic tensioner roller to remove the belt.

Here is the roller outside the engine to better see the handling
    • The operation will be done via the hood. The tensioner roller is circled in green

    • Using the eye of a 13 key and a 4 pin, you will loosen the automatic tensioner roller to remove the belt.

    • Here is the roller outside the engine to better see the handling

    • Using the roller nut as if to unscrew. The whole part will turn and the pin will have to be inserted into the hole next to the arrow (orange square) in order to block the tensioner roller

  4. 
The belt is now slack. You can remove it

Look carefully at the order. The rollers have a flat surface and the pulleys have grooves.

Depending on whether your car has air conditioning or not. Use the diagram to help you. A = with air conditioning B = without air conditioning. Take only the diagram into account, not the part on the crankshaft
    • The belt is now slack. You can remove it

    • Look carefully at the order. The rollers have a flat surface and the pulleys have grooves.

    • Depending on whether your car has air conditioning or not. Use the diagram to help you. A = with air conditioning B = without air conditioning. Take only the diagram into account, not the part on the crankshaft

    • Here we see that the belt had to be changed quickly. For the rollers, turn them and you will notice a pronounced squeak if they are worn. (If they have a lot of KM and years change them)

    • From there, if you do not want to change the rollers, you simply have to put the new belt back on and re-tension the roller by removing the pin gently so as not to pinch yourself. Then put the mudguard and the wheel back on.

  5. 
This is the roller.

To loosen it, simply unscrew its nut using a 17 mm wrench.
    • This is the roller.

    • To loosen it, simply unscrew its nut using a 17 mm wrench.

  6. 
The tensioner roller has 3 screws of 13 to remove.

We removed the idler roller first because a screw was not accessible
    • The tensioner roller has 3 screws of 13 to remove.

    • We removed the idler roller first because a screw was not accessible

    • This is what the space looks like once the two pebbles are removed

    • For the rest, simply proceed in reverse. Replace the new tensioner pulley, then the idler pulley and finally replace the belt. Then re-tighten the tensioner pulley and replace the mudguard and the wheel.

    • Before replacing the mudguard, start the vehicle to check that everything is fine. The belt should not make any noise. If at the first start there is a small shrill noise for a few seconds, it is simply the belt making its first turn. If this noise continues, STOP everything and check your assembly and your parts.

Finish Line

6 other people completed this guide.

Arnaud Kalms

Member since: 6/14/17

775 Reputation

6 Guides authored

12 Comments

Thanks for this tutorial that puts mechanics at your fingertips. I quite easily changed the accessory belt on my 206 ess 110CV without removing the wheel since a recalcitrant nut made me bend the car's wheel wrench (purchase of a cross wrench planned). Otherwise, I took a sliding T-shaped wrench with a 13 socket to leverage the tensioner roller to easily remove the belt. For reassembly, I still lifted the car to pass the belt through the lower pulley, I had more space.

philippecontet - Resolved on Release Reply

Great tutorial, it helped me out a lot. I was stuck after seeing another tutorial with a system that works with a square of 10, I didn't see the square with this system, I did it easily with this one, thank you.

rm032 - Resolved on Release Reply

So on my 206 xsp from 2003 2l hdi the screw of my tensioner roller is indeed 15 and not as stated here 13… In addition for the roller it is not a 6-sided screw but a 50 allen (also called btr)

ziza2 - Resolved on Release Reply

Here the tutorial is given for a 206 cc 1.6l in 16S (the 110 horsepower petrol and not an HDI)

yaya2euch -

The distribution, the water pump and the accessory belt having been changed by the mechanic of the previous owner but not the accessory belt tensioner which started to whistle shortly after. I simply changed the tensioner roller (9€). For my model (206 petrol 1.4l automatic) no need to remove the assembly. Simply turn the screw with a 13 key, counterclockwise to loosen the roller support and insert a 4.5 drill bit, in order to block the assembly. Then with the 13 key, turn this time, clockwise to loosen and remove the screw (which has a left-hand thread). Remove the used roller, then put a new one on the roller holder and repeat the operations in reverse order.

tuning46 - Resolved on Release Reply

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