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Introduction

The steering rod is an assembly that consists of an inner ball joint (connected to the rack and pinion) and an outer ball joint more often called a steering knuckle.

We will change the right outer ball joint here but the procedure is strictly identical for the left ball joint.

  1. 
Raise the car on the front right side using the jack and place a jack stand under the side member

and unscrew the 4 studs using a 19mm wrench (or the crank supplied with the jack) to remove the wheel

The studs will have been previously released before lifting the car, unless you have an impact wrench as is the case here.
    • Raise the car on the front right side using the jack and place a jack stand under the side member

    • and unscrew the 4 studs using a 19mm wrench (or the crank supplied with the jack) to remove the wheel

    • The studs will have been previously released before lifting the car, unless you have an impact wrench as is the case here.

    • Apply penetrating oil to both ends of the outer ball joint

  2. 
Loosen the outer ball joint locking nut using a 21mm open-end wrench (a 13mm open-end wrench can be used to secure the inner ball joint if necessary)

We just unlock it. Once it is free, we put it back in its initial position, flush with the outer ball joint.

unscrew the nut of the outer ball joint using a 16mm wrench
    • Loosen the outer ball joint locking nut using a 21mm open-end wrench (a 13mm open-end wrench can be used to secure the inner ball joint if necessary)

    • We just unlock it. Once it is free, we put it back in its initial position, flush with the outer ball joint.

    • unscrew the nut of the outer ball joint using a 16mm wrench

    • tap on the side with a mallet to free the ball joint from the cone

  3. 
If the ball joint does not come, you can reposition the nut flush and tap it with the mallet

Most of the time, tapping on the side is enough. A bronze jet can be used for more precision.
    • If the ball joint does not come, you can reposition the nut flush and tap it with the mallet

    • Most of the time, tapping on the side is enough. A bronze jet can be used for more precision.

  4. 
hold the inner ball joint using a 13mm flat wrench if the outer ball joint is not already free

and unscrew the outer ball joint

taking care to count the number of turns (17 and a half turns in my case, this is purely for information purposes)
    • hold the inner ball joint using a 13mm flat wrench if the outer ball joint is not already free

    • and unscrew the outer ball joint

    • taking care to count the number of turns (17 and a half turns in my case, this is purely for information purposes)

  5. 
compare the ball joints (shape, length)
    • compare the ball joints (shape, length)

    • There is a left side and a right side.

  6. 
screw the outer ball joint onto the inner ball joint respecting the number of turns, you should again be flush with the 21mm locking nut

insert the outer ball joint into its housing in the hub carrier

and tighten using a 15mm wrench (tightening torque 37N.m)
    • screw the outer ball joint onto the inner ball joint respecting the number of turns, you should again be flush with the 21mm locking nut

    • insert the outer ball joint into its housing in the hub carrier

    • and tighten using a 15mm wrench (tightening torque 37N.m)

    • The original ball joint nut came loose with a 16mm wrench, the new nut with a 15mm wrench. This kind of thing happens very frequently, it does not mean in any way that the parts are not compatible.

  7. 
If the nut turns freely, the ball joint can be locked by inserting a 5mm Allen key at its end.

or by blocking the assembly using large multi-grip pliers
    • If the nut turns freely, the ball joint can be locked by inserting a 5mm Allen key at its end.

    • or by blocking the assembly using large multi-grip pliers

  8. 
tighten the outer ball joint locking nut using the 21mm open-end wrench

Again, the inner ball joint can be immobilized with a 13mm open-end wrench if necessary.
    • tighten the outer ball joint locking nut using the 21mm open-end wrench

    • Again, the inner ball joint can be immobilized with a 13mm open-end wrench if necessary.

    • reassemble the wheel (stud tightening torque 105N.m) and remove the candle and the jack

  9. 
Even if we have done our best to fit the ball joints as originally, it is essential to have the alignment adjusted by a professional. The adjustment made during assembly is only temporary, while we carefully go to the garage.
    • Even if we have done our best to fit the ball joints as originally, it is essential to have the alignment adjusted by a professional. The adjustment made during assembly is only temporary, while we carefully go to the garage.

Finish Line

One other person completed this guide.

a_bosc2000

Member since: 11/3/19

28,481 Reputation

147 Guides authored

One Comment

how to properly measure the length of the steering ball joint they give 2 different models

yannick.jourdain42 - Resolved on Release Reply

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