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Introduction

Tutorial made on Skoda Fabia 1.6 TDi

  1. 
The air filter of the 1.6 TDi is ring-shaped, surrounded by a cotton strip... original!
    • The air filter of the 1.6 TDi is ring-shaped, surrounded by a cotton strip... original!

  2. 
The hood of the car is opened by operating the lever on the driver's side.

Locate the air box (framed in red)

We can identify the air flow, which starts from a cuff located at the front, which directs the flow into the air box (where the precious filter is located), then goes back to the rear, via a hose.
    • The hood of the car is opened by operating the lever on the driver's side.

    • Locate the air box (framed in red)

    • We can identify the air flow, which starts from a cuff located at the front, which directs the flow into the air box (where the precious filter is located), then goes back to the rear, via a hose.

    • This last one is going to bother us a little. We can see that the air flow meter is fixed on it (3rd photo). (just above the yellow brake fluid reservoir)

  3. 
The air box is fixed with 5 screws, which are more or less easy to access. The red arrows allow you to identify them.

So we unscrew the 5 one by one, being very careful that they do not fall into the depths of the engine, because at that point, to recover them

The most unpleasant screw is the one located completely behind the air box.
    • The air box is fixed with 5 screws, which are more or less easy to access. The red arrows allow you to identify them.

    • So we unscrew the 5 one by one, being very careful that they do not fall into the depths of the engine, because at that point, to recover them

    • The most unpleasant screw is the one located completely behind the air box.

  4. 
With the screws removed, you now need to remove the hose that fits into the air box cover.

Use a pair of multi-grip pliers to release the circlip.

The 2 steps are:
    • With the screws removed, you now need to remove the hose that fits into the air box cover.

    • Use a pair of multi-grip pliers to release the circlip.

    • The 2 steps are:

    • 1. (in red) pinch to remove the pressure exerted by the circlip on the fitting

    • 2. (in blue) Still pinching, move the circlip to one side so that it allows us to release the hose.

    • I advise you to release it from the right side, because its pressure is high and if you release it from the left side (soft side of the hose), it risks tearing...

    • In the 3rd photo, we can clearly see that the circlip is on the right (on the rigid part of the connector). We can thus release the flexible hose.

  5. 
Before you can remove the air box cover, you must disconnect the air flow meter
    • Before you can remove the air box cover, you must disconnect the air flow meter

    • Carefully unplug this plug. A screwdriver is very useful.

  6. 
Your air box can be opened: by removing the cover, the filter will come with it.

So be careful to do it carefully!

Clean the air box to remove any impurities present inside
    • Your air box can be opened: by removing the cover, the filter will come with it.

    • So be careful to do it carefully!

    • Clean the air box to remove any impurities present inside

  7. 
Compare the dimensions between the old and new air filter

We can see on the 3rd photo that visibly, the old filter was pressed on one side of the box, which obstructed the passage of air (and therefore forced the passage on the rest of the surface...). Which therefore in some way "reduced the treatment surface".

We can see on the 3rd photo that visibly, the old filter was pressed on one side of the box, which obstructed the passage of air (and therefore forced the passage on the rest of the surface...). Which therefore in some way "reduced the treatment surface".
    • Compare the dimensions between the old and new air filter

    • We can see on the 3rd photo that visibly, the old filter was pressed on one side of the box, which obstructed the passage of air (and therefore forced the passage on the rest of the surface...). Which therefore in some way "reduced the treatment surface".

  8. 
Now, it's more or less delicate. The first photo shows you that the 3 notches of the filter go on the 3 housings of the hood.

Once the notches are in front of the housings, you must turn the filter on itself, so that the notches ensure the fixing of the filter on the air box cover.

It can be difficult, I had an easier time with some brands than with others. In particular when turning the filter on itself, the notches do not seem to fit. We can therefore slightly chamfer (with a cutter) the beginning of the notch to make handling easier.
    • Now, it's more or less delicate. The first photo shows you that the 3 notches of the filter go on the 3 housings of the hood.

    • Once the notches are in front of the housings, you must turn the filter on itself, so that the notches ensure the fixing of the filter on the air box cover.

    • It can be difficult, I had an easier time with some brands than with others. In particular when turning the filter on itself, the notches do not seem to fit. We can therefore slightly chamfer (with a cutter) the beginning of the notch to make handling easier.

  9. 
Once the new filter is on the air box cover, you have to put the cover back on the box.

Proceed in reverse order

1. The electrical plug (of the flow meter)
    • Once the new filter is on the air box cover, you have to put the cover back on the box.

    • Proceed in reverse order

    • 1. The electrical plug (of the flow meter)

    • 2. The air hose (with the circlip to be put back in place to seal the connection)

    • 3. The 5 hood screws

    • Here are some pictures of the old filter, I think it's always better to replace it sooner than later, especially for a few euros!

Finish Line

5 other people completed this guide.

yann.prehu

Member since: 10/12/2017

3,592 Reputation

19 Guides authored

5 Comments

Good morning,

Thanks for the very useful tutorial, obviously the rear screw is made of rickets in the lower depths of the engine not easy to find but no worries with the filter otherwise.

Is there a screwdriver or something else to access the rear screw in the toolbox (pain in the ass).

THANKS.

christophemillet2 - Reply

cool that this tutorial is useful! I use a universal joint and an extension that attaches to my screwdriver. In fact, it's not really a screwdriver, it's a tool holder, and I put the bit I want (crosshead, flat, torx etc...). So I have the possibility of attaching a small extension and a universal joint (it was in the box of my socket box)... If that can help...

yann.prehu -

FYI, for those who have lost an air box screw in the depths of the engine, they are easily ordered from a Volkswagen dealer, for the modest sum of 47 cents per screw! (Oscaro does not sell screws!) (that said, I worked on 4 screws for a while without any problem!).

yann.prehu - Reply

Hello, no seal to replace as far as I know... just the filter...

yann.prehu - Reply

Hello

I have the same thing as you

on the other hand in the air box a round seal inside?

Did you have a gasket replaced?

THANKS

GERALD FEUGRAY - Reply

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